How to Design and Build a Kitchen Island

Learn how to build and install a kitchen island from ready-made cabinets; watch a video that demonstrates construction and assembly tips.

Ron visited a family whose kitchen was so big they had to shout between the oven and the table. Ron helped them construct a kitchen island out of modular cabinets and a butcher-block top. The new island not only provides a new seating area in the spacious kitchen but it also adds plenty of additional storage and countertop space Click Here For a list of what you will need in order to complete this project. Click here to view a full video of this segment.

1. Determine size and location Most home improvement centers have a design center where customers can get help designing an island with the exact configuration of stock cabinets they will need to meet their own specifications. If this is not available from the home improvement center, it is possible to get custom assistance from many cabinet manufacturers. Create a cardboard template representing the exact dimensions of the new island. Move this template around the floor until it is in a desirable location. When determining this location, be sure to allow sufficient clearance for opening cabinet doors both on the island itself and on the existing kitchen cabinets. Also, open appliances like the dishwasher, refrigerator and oven to make sure there is adequate clearance. Ideally, you should allow a minimum of 3 feet between the kitchen cabinets and the new island. Mark the corners of the cardboard with masking tape.

2. Lay out base cabinets Unpack the cabinets and arrange them according to your individual design. Use the tape marks as guides to position the outside cabinets.

3. Attach cabinet face frames Align the first two cabinets so the face frames are flush with each other. Attach a clamp to hold the first two cabinets firmly together just below the first cross bar. Attach a second clamp below.

Permanently attach the cabinets together with screws driven through the adjoining face frames: Drill a clearance hole through the first face frame. (Wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit to act as a depth marker to make sure you don't penetrate into the adjoining frame.) Use a smaller, longer bit to create a pilot hole that will extend through the first face frame and into the adjoining cabinet. Use a cone shaped countersink bit to create a cone shaped recess so the head of the screw won't get in the way of the drawer. Finally, drive in a two-and-a-half inch screw. Repeat the process three times for each face frame.

4. Attach cabinet backs Because the cabinets will be freestanding rather than attached to a wall, the backs of the cabinets also need to be attached together. Anytime there is a gap between the cabinets that prevents them from being attached firmly together, a thin piece of wood called a spacer will need to be inserted. A spacer the exact width of the gap will allow the cabinet sides to be fastened firmly together with screws.

Trim the spacers where necessary with a handsaw. Repeat the process until all of the cabinets are attached firmly together.

5. Modifications A standard wall cabinet can be modified, if necessary, to bring it up to the same height as a base cabinet. Construct a base from four pieces of one by four, and then add two wooden cleats to the inside. The cleats will drop into the bottom of the cabinet, and can be attached with screws.

A right angle drill is perfect for getting in tight spots like this.

6. Pre-finished paneling Because the backs and sides of the cabinets will not be concealed against the wall, they will need to be covered with paneling. Measure and cut the paneling to size and apply glue to the back of the paneling and along the edges of the cabinets. Ensure that the paneling is flush with the outside edges and position it against the back of the cabinet.

Attach the paneling with a pneumatic nail gun every six inches. Keep the nails near the cabinet edges to ensure that they attach securely to the cabinet.

7. Conceal nail holes The nail holes can be covered with a wax pencil designed for pre-finished paneling. Apply the matching pencil to the hole and then smooth it out with a finger. 8. Trim and base molding Attach base molding and conceal rough edges with trim along each corner.

Additional columns and accents may be added, depending on the design. 9. Countertop Position the butcher-block countertop on top of the cabinet structure. Attach the countertop to the cabinets from underneath with screws. For tips on finishing butcher block, see Tips and Techniques .

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