How to Install a Metal Storm Door, Cont'd

• Chris stepped up on the ladder to drive in the screws through the top frame and into the doorjamb.

4. Latch frame

• To measure for the latch frame, which is the frame on the latch side of the door, they held the tape from the top of the threshold up to the bottom of the top frame they had just put in.

• They transferred the measurement to the latch frame and marked it with a utility knife.

• Once again, Ron used a hacksaw to make the cut.

• The latch frame attached to the doorjamb with screws.

• To give the hinge and latch frames a more finished look, the door kit came with plastic strips that were designed to slip over the screws and conceal them.

• The last thing they needed to do was make the final adjustment to the expandable bottom they had temporarily attached earlier.

• Ron showed how the bottom could be moved down to make the door longer, or moved up to make it shorter. They closed the door and pushed the panel down until it was in contact with the floor, which created a seal to keep out drafts and water.

• First Ron drilled pilot holes…

• …then he attached the bottom panel with small sheet metal screws.

6. Door closer and latch

• With the new door snugly in place, they mounted the door closer bracket to the top of the doorframe.
  

• Then they attached the closer itself, first to the frame with a small pin…

• …and then to the door.

• Finally, Chris and Chrissy installed the handle and latch assembly.

• Once the doorframe was fully installed, Ron demonstrated how to replace all the panels. First he made it into a screen door, which involved just putting the screen panels into the two channels, one above and one below.

• For cold weather, Ron showed how the door could easily be converted into a storm door, by dropping in the storm panels.