How to Replace an Old Fence

David Miles and his wife Jill had a backyard fence that was well beyond repair and ready for the kindling pile. They asked Ron to help them replace the fence and he suggested they try a new state-of-the-art product that is virtually maintenance-free.

The new fence is a plastic product made of PVC and manufactured by U.S. Fence. It has an additive, titanium dioxide, which will keep it looking new for a very long time and it is guaranteed for the lifetime of the purchaser.

Click Here For a list of what you will need in order to complete this project.

1. Remove old fence
Begin by ripping each section off the posts with pry bars and hammers. The older the fence, the easier it should be to dismantle. After all of the fencing material is removed, the old posts can be removed.

If the posts are not set in concrete they can be removed more easily with a high-lift jack. Attach a piece of scrap wood to the side of the post with screws.

This will provide a ledge or cleat to attach the jack. Use screws so that the cleat can easily be removed and reused.

After each post has been removed, back out the screws, remove the cleat, reattach it to the next post and repeat the process.

2. New fence
The new fence is built from two basic components: the panel, which comes fully assembled, just as it is shown, and the posts.

Each panel is attached to the posts using three special brackets, which mount on the side of each post.

3. Install brackets
The first step is to attach the brackets onto the posts. Set up a sawhorse to create a better working height and position.

Begin by measuring and marking the bracket locations along the length of each post. Position each bracket and then attach it with a pair of aluminum screws. Attach brackets to just one side of the two end posts and on both sides of all of the remaining posts.

After attaching all of the brackets to the posts, begin laying out the fence location.

Drive in a stake at each end of the new fence line and then stretch a length of twine between the two stakes by wrapping the string around each stake. This will provide a reference line to ensure that the fence is straight.

4. Postholes
Use a power auger or a posthole digger to bore a hole about 30 inches deep.

If using a power auger, you will also need a posthole digger to remove the loose soil from the hole. The fence posts for this particular fence panel need to be set 72 inches apart, so measure from the middle of the first hole and then mark the spot for the second hole with spray paint.

5. Set posts
After measuring and boring the first two holes, pour a couple of inches of gravel into the bottom of each one for drainage and then insert the post into the hole, bringing the backside up against the string.

Use a post plumbing level, which hooks directly onto the post, to ensure that the post is vertical in both directions. Once the post is plumb, pour dry cement into the hole and fill it up to about an inch below the top. Double check the post to make sure it remains plumb.

6. Attach panels
Once the first post is set, attach the first panel into the brackets and then drive in screws through both sides of each of the three brackets.

When setting the second post in place, make sure the back of the post is set right up next to the string.

Before setting the second post in cement, first make sure the panel is both perfectly level and properly aligned with the brackets. In some cases you may need to use a hammer or mallet to tap the post deeper into the gravel or add more gravel. Attach the panel to the second post, check once more for plumb and level and then set the second post in cement.

Continue setting posts and attaching fence panels until the fence is completed. Remember to check each panel for level before setting each post and moving on to the next section.

7. Finishing touches
Apply a special adhesive that's made for PVC fencing plastic to the inside edge of each post cap.

The caps are both decorative and functional, since they keep water out of the posts.

The new plastic fence is great-looking, will never need painting or staining, cannot rot, and is guaranteed to last for decades.