How to Install a Front Entry Door

The front door of Ron's Connecticut home didn't look too bad, but in the summer it generally swelled to the point where the Hazelton's couldn't even use it. In the winter however, it seemed to let in everything - especially the cold winter air.

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Ron decided to get started before summer, and not give the old door a chance to start sticking again. Ron selected a new door from Pella, that had a very traditional look, but was energy efficient. Learn more about the Pella door that Ron selected.

1. Remove old door
The first step to removing an existing door is to remove the wood trim that covers and conceals the edges of the frame. Then move inside and remove the interior casing.

After the casing and exterior trim has been removed, the door is probably held in place with several nails that are driven through the frame and into the framing of the house. Cut through these nails with a reciprocating saw, using a special blade that is designed to cut nails.

With all the nails cut, the door frame, including the sidelights, should come out in one piece.

2. Prepare for the new door
The most important thing before installing any new door is to ensure that the bottom surface, where the threshold sits, is perfectly level and flat. Check the sill at the bottom with a large level.

The door opening also needs to be exactly the right size for the new door. Measure the door opening to make sure. If the opening is too large, add strips of plywood to the sides and top to make the opening smaller.

To ensure that there is a watertight seal around the door frame, insert foil tape under the trim above the door, fold it back and tape it temporarily in place.

Next, apply adhesive-backed aluminum tape to the sill and run it up the sides a few inches. Cut the corners and fold the tape over the edge. Then put one final strip of metal tape on the top of the sill.

After everything is carefully sealed, install the sill support, which is made from a piece of oak attached to a piece of angle iron.

Position the sill extension with a couple of blocks of scrap wood so you can free up your hands, then drive rust resistant screws through the angle iron and into the framing of the house.

Cover the metal with a strip of cedar trim, and then nail it in place.

Finally, apply three beads of silicone sealant on top of the sill to make certain that no moisture seeps in under the bottom of the door frame.

3. New door
The new door will be heavy but should be manageable. With someone lending a hand, set the bottom of the door in place while being careful not to drag it across the beads of sealant. Carefully tip the door up into position and then temporarily secure it in place with just a couple of nails.

Go inside to make sure that everything is square and level. This is the time to make adjustments if necessary.

Using a large level, check to see if the sides of the frame are plumb, or vertical. The best way to check for square on an object that is as large as this door is to measure it diagonally from corner to corner in each direction. Compare the measurements. If they are the same, then the frame is square.

You will also need to check the gap or space between the edge of the door and the door frame It should be uniform from the top all the way down to the bottom.

The ultimate test is how well the door opens and closes. After the new door passes all these tests, you can go back outside and finish nailing it off.