How to Make a Tile Patio

In the San Francisco East Bay community of Lafayette, Joan Lee was planning to give her backyard patio a Mexican makeover. She chose Mexican-style Saltillo tile to create the perfect setting for her Mexican fountain and she welcomed Ron's expert assistance with the project.

Click Here For a list of what you will need in order to complete this project.

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1. Patio cleaning
Begin by thoroughly cleaning the patio. This will help ensure a good bond between the mortar and the existing concrete slab. Use a concrete wash that is distributed through a container that attaches directly to the garden hose. Move the hose from side to side allowing the water pressure to wash the patio surface.

The concrete wash will dissolve long-standing dirt and algae on the patio. Allow it sit for about ten minutes, then scrub the patio surface with a push broom and finally rinse the patio with fresh water.

2. Determine tile layout
Before laying down tile, you will need to determine out how many tiles will be needed for the width and length of the patio. It is important that that you avoid ending up with narrow strips of tile on either side.

If there are any expansion joints on the existing slab, make the tile joint fall right over the existing joint. This will allow the two parts of the patio to move independently without disturbing the tile.

Align the first tile with the outside edge of the patio. When laying the remaining tiles, leave a half-inch space between each one. Continue laying the tiles across the patio.

If the tiles don't come out evenly, you have two choices. You can either divide the amount that needs to be cut off between the first and last tile, or you can make the adjustment to the tiles on just one edge of the patio.

The amount that needs to be cut off will help you determine if you should take it all from one side or split it amoung two tiles.

Repeat this process for both the width and length of the patio.

Set a large right triangle in the outside corner of the patio to determine if it is a perfect 90° angle.

A perfect angle is important because it means you can start in the corner and work outward. If you don't have a perfect rectangle, you should draw straight lines intersecting in the center of the patio and begin laying tile on this center mark, keeping the grout lines straight along the lines you have drawn.

3. Mortar
The tile is set with exterior grade thin-set mortar. To get a stronger and a more pliable bond, use an acrylic fortifier in place of the water. First pour two gallons of the fortifier into the bucket and then gradually add one bag of mortar to the acrylic. Use a mixer attached to a drill to stir the mortar.

Once the mortar is mixed, it will need to slake, or rest, for about ten minutes before it can be used.

4. Lay tile
Use the straight edge of the trowel to distribute the mortar in one small area at a time, taking the mortar all the way to the edge of the patio.

Turn the trowel up on its edge and use the notched side to rake across the mortar, which will result in ridges and furrows.

It is important to hold the trowel in a perpendicular position to avoid smashing the ridges.

Since Saltillos have an irregular surface, it is important to spread a thin layer of mortar across the back of each tile, which is called "buttering."

As you do this, be careful not to get mortar on the face of the tile because they have not been sealed yet. Drop each tile carefully in place, aligned with the edge of the patio.

Careful placement of the first row of tile is important as it sets the positioning for the remaining patio.

Take a section of 2 x 4, gently lay it across the surface of the tile and then tap it with a rubber mallet to set it the tile into the mortar. The ridges help to create a uniform contact with the back of the tile, which is important for preventing cracking.

To keep the grout lines at a consistent half-inch width, insert a couple of plastic spacers between the tiles.

After all of the whole tiles have been set in place, measure the odd spaces along the edges that need to be filled with cut tiles. Don't forget to subtract the width of the grout line from each measurement

If there is a case where the tiles butts up against an object like a planter or boarder, allow for a grout space between the tile and object .

Mark the cut line on each tile.

5. Cut tile
Tile saws are equipped with a diamond blade and a pump that circulates water over the blade to keep it cool.

Align the blade with the cut line, push the moving tray toward the blade and make the cut.

Once all the tiles are in place, allow the mortar set overnight.

6. Seal tile
Before grouting the tile, it is recommended that you apply a pre-grout sealer.

Use a sealer that can be applied before and after grouting. Saltillo tiles are very porous and if grout gets smeared on the top of the tile, it is impossible to get it off if you don't apply sealer to the tile surface first.  Because the tile is susceptible to picking up dirt before it is sealed, remove your shoes before sealing the tiles.

Use paintbrushes to apply sealer to the face of each tile. Avoid getting sealer on the edges or between the tiles because that could prevent the grout from adhering later on.

After allowing the sealer to dry, try sprinkling a little water onto the surface to ensure that the sealer is working effectively.

7. Grout
Use a mixer attachment and a large bucket to mix a bag of exterior grade grout with a gallon of water, adding slightly more water as necessary. Choose a grout that is rated for large joints.

Use a grout float, which is a sponge rubber tool, to force the grout into the joints. Holding the float in a flat position, push the grout all the way down to the bottom of each joint so that it is completely filled with grout.