 |
 |
 |
| Replacing older windows can actually be a fairly simple process. |
Choose a new window that's energy efficient and attractive. State-of-the-art double-hung Pella windows are a great choice. |
First, from inside the house, remove the storm windows. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| Next, outside the house, remove the storm window frame. The screws holding the storm window frame in place may be covered in several coats of paint, making them difficult to back out with a screwdriver. A screw retractor tool like GraBit is perfect for these situations. |
Use the reamer end of the GraBit to drill a cone-shaped depression in the screw. Then, use the retractor end of the GraBit to back the screw out. |
With the screws removed, tap out the storm frame gently with a hammer and remove it completely. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| Next, inside the house, use a utility knife to cut the paint and caulk between the narrow strip of moulding called a sash stop and the window casing. |
Then, insert a putty knife and work the sash stops loose enough to insert a prybar. Use the prybar to carefully remove the sash stops. You can save the sash stops for reuse later. |
With the sash stops removed, you can now remove the upper sash, lower sash, and window crack all at the same time. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| At the top of the rough opening, you can remove the parting strip with a pair of pliers. |
Now that everything has been removed (with the exception of the outside trim and the inner casing), it's time to do a test fit with the new window. |
If the window fits into the rough opening, the next step is to make sure the sill is level. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| Then, use a caulk gun to apply silicone sealant to the bottom corners of the rough opening. |
Starting on the lower sides, apply aluminum weather proofing tape to cover the bottom of the sill. The butyl adhesive backing prevents any water from penetrating the sill. |
Next, apply silicone sealant to the outside stop, against which the new window frame will sit. |
| |
|
|
 |
|
|