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Home Improvement > Kitchen > How to Remove and Replace a Porcelain Kitchen Sink

Learn how to replace a double kitchen sink and move the garbage disposal to the opposite side.

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Step

The homeowners' double kitchen sink leaks and, for their preference, has the garbage disposal located in the wrong sink. They choose to replace the entire unit with an updated cast iron and porcelain unit after removing and discarding the old sink. Because they will relocate the garbage disposal, they will add some additional fittings to accommodate the change.

Prepare Your Tools, Materials and Work Environment

Step

Plan your project and purchase the new sink in the appropriate size and configuration. Your local home improvement store offers a variety of brands and models. Assemble your tools and materials. Switch off the circuit to the disposal at the electrical box and test the on/off switch for the disposal to ensure that the power is off. Ensure that the disposal is empty of food material and water.

Shut Off the Water Supply

Step

Turn off the water supply at the shutoff valves under the sink to stop the water while you work on the sink. Turn on each faucet to confirm that the water supply is off and relieve the pressure.

Provide a Basin to Catch Residual Water from the Pipes and Drain

Step

Put a pot or other large basin under the piping beneath the sink to catch any residual water trapped in the water lines and drain as you disconnect them.

Disconnect and Drain the Water Lines

Step

Disconnect the water lines, starting with an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut on the top and then finishing the task with your fingers. Let any water in the lines run into the pot.

Reposition the Basin Under the Drain

Step

Reposition the basin under the drain line before beginning to disconnect it.

Loosen the Large Plastic Nut on the Drainpipe

Step

Loosen the large plastic nut on the drainpipe with your fingers or, if necessary, use adjustable multi-groove pliers that will open wide enough to grasp the plastic nut.

Disconnect the P-trap

Step

Loosen the plastic nut on the other side of the P-trap. This U-shaped pipe generally contains sink wastewater, but the water in the trap forms a seal that keeps sewer gases from coming up through the sink. Use the adjustable multi-groove pliers, if necessary, and then remove the P-trap. Dump the water into the basin.

Remove the Hose Clamp

Step

Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the screw on the hose clamp and remove the clamp.

Disable the Electrical Circuit and Disconnect the Garbage Disposal Wiring

Step

Disconnect the wiring to the garbage disposal. You already switched off the electrical circuit that powers the disposal and tested to ensure the power was off.

Detach and Remove the Garbage Disposal

Step

Detach and remove the disposal after first inserting a screwdriver into the ear on the retaining ring and giving it a quarter turn to the left (counterclockwise) to loosen it.

Detach the Metal Sink Clips

Step

Detach the metal clips that hold the sink to the countertop.

Life Out the Sink

Step

Lift the sink out of the countertop and dispose of it. If the sink is in good condition, a charitable organization will accept it and refurbish it.

Remove the New Sink from Its Packaging

Step

Unbox the new sink, after protecting the countertop from scratches with a padded covering, and inventory the parts. In this project, the new sink is cast iron with porcelain on top. If the sink is a bigger size or shape from the original, you will need to adjust the sink cut out. The sink should come with a cutout template to trace onto the counter for a cutting line. Prepare to install the hardware before mounting the sink in the countertop.

Decide on the Faucet Location and Align the Gasket Appropriately

Step

Decide which of the pre-cut holes in the sink will receive the faucet (bottom mounted in this project) and position the supplied rubber gasket on that opening, aligning the hole in the gasket with the one in the sink. The gasket will prevent water from running into the hole into the cabinet below.

Position the Faucet Base Plate

Step

Position the faucet base plate on top of and aligned with the gasket.

Insert the Faucet through the Faucet Base Plate

Step

Drop the base of the single-lever faucet through the hole in the faucet base plate.

Secure the Faucet with a Spacer and Large Nut

Step

Secure the faucet with a spacer and large nut on the bottom of the unit and applied from the underside of the sink. Space is cramped on the underside of the sink flange, so tighten the nut with the tubular black plastic socket wrench provided with the sink kit. This tool works well in tight spaces.

Insert Mounting Brackets and Nuts Over the Threaded Posts

Step

Insert the mounting brackets and nuts over the threaded posts on the bottom of the faucet's base plate and tighten them with your fingers.

Install the Air Gap Device

Step

Slip the air gap device upwards in the remaining pre-cut hole in the sink to prevent dirty sink water from siphoning into the dishwasher. Position and tighten the large plastic nut from the upper side of the sink.

Attach the Water Hose on the Faucet Wand

Step

Insert the water hose on the faucet wand into the open end of the faucet base and attach the hose to the fitting on the underside of the faucet. Finger-tighten the nut and then give it a quarter turn with an open-end wrench.

Screw the Lead Weight to the Hose

Step

Use a screwdriver to attach the lead weight to the hose, sandwiching the hose between the two halves of the weight. The weight will pull the hose under the sink when the faucet wand is not in use.

Shape Pumber's Putty for the Drain Cutout

Step

Roll 1/2-inch coils of plumber's putty between the palms of your hands. Make them long enough to encircle the perimeter of each drain cutout.

Apply the Coil of Putty to the Drain Cutout

Step

Apply the coil working from the upper side of the sink. The putty will flatten out when you install the strainer baskets and the excess will ooze out the sides for easy removal--so neatness is not a big requirement.

Set the Sink Strainer Basket on the Putty and Press in Place

Step

Drop each sink strainer basket on top of the putty in its respective drain hole and press the hardware firmly against the putty to make a waterproof seal. The strainer on the disposal side is different from the regular strainer (completely open on the bottom), so ensure you position them correctly.

Locate the Underside of the Sink Cutout on the Side without the Disposal

Step

Tilt the sink on its side to allow access to the bottom of the strainer hardware and locate the sink strainer on the side of the sink that will not have the disposal.

Add the Gaskets and Retaining Ring

Step

Add the rubber gasket, the cardboard casket, and then the threaded retaining ring to the bottom of the strainer.

Snug the Retaining Ring

Step

Snug the retaining ring with your fingers.

Use the Special Wrench to Tighten The Retaining Ring an Additional Quarter Turn

Step

Use the special wrench provided to tighten the retaining ring securely with an additional quarter turn.

Add Gaskets and Base Plate for the Disposal

Step

Slip the gaskets and base plate for the disposal on the bottom of the other strainer basket.

Add the Mounting Bracket

Step

Add the mounting bracket for the garbage disposal.

Snap on the Retaining Ring

Step

Snap on the retaining ring.

Remove the Excess Putty

Step

Run your finger along the top side of both strainer baskets to remove the excess putty squeezed out when you tightened the hardware.

Tighten the Disposal's Retaining Ring with a Screwdriver

Step

Fit the disposal's retaining ring into the mounting bracket and tighten it by inserting a screwdriver into the ear on the retaining ring to turn it. This process is the reverse of the process you used to remove the disposal earlier.

Reinstall the Drainpipe and P-trap

Step

Reinstall the drainpipe and P-trap and tighten any compression nuts. Re-attach the hoses with hose clamps. Secure the clips at the corners of the sink to fasten it to the countertop.

Place the Sink in Its Opening Elevated on Small Blocks of Wood

Step

Place temporary blocks of wood (of equal thickness) on each side of the sink opening and then turn the sink right side up and gently position it in the sink cutout in the countertop. Move the protective padding aside, so that it does not obstruct the sink.

Caulk the Perimeter of the Sink Opening

Step

Caulk around the perimeter of the sink opening. The wooden blocks hold the sink off the surface to facilitate adding the sealant and protect your fingers from being pinched under the heavy cast iron sink--but they temporarily prevent caulking portions of the perimeter.

Remove the Wooden Blocks and Lower the Sink into Position

Step

Have a helper support the sink from the bottom while you remove the wooden blocks, one at a time, and finish caulking the perimeter of the sink cutout. Lower the sink gently into position.

Add Another Bead of Caulk on the Sink Flange

Step

Add another bead of caulk at the edge of the sink flange.

Smooth the Caulk with Your Finger

Step

Smooth the caulk with your fingers after dipping them in soapy water.

Reinstall the Water Lines

Step

Reinstall the water lines.

Add Required Pipe Fittings for the Disposal's New Position

Step

Add additional pipe fittings as required to accommodate the new position for the disposal. Apply pipe thread compound to the connecting threads where appropriate.

Reattach the Electrical Wires to the Disposal

Step

Re-attach the electrical wires to the disposal.

Turn the Valves to Restart the Water

Step

Turn the valves on to re-start the water supply. It is a good idea to remove the aerator from the faucet and let water run through the plumbing for a minute or two to flush out any manufacturing debris that may lurk in the faucet and hoses. Reinstall the aerator and switch the electrical circuit on at the electrical box to restore power to the disposal.

Tighten the Screws on the Disposal Mounting Bracket

Step

Tighten the screws on the mounting bracket with a screwdriver to pull the strainer basket firmly into the plumber’s putty on the other side.