Determine Design, Dimensions and Materials
Decide on the design, dimensions, and materials for your project and purchase required materials. Assemble tools and safety equipment, particularly face masks and safety glasses, because you will be using several power tools. Among the power tools is a router that will dress the edges of the poplar and create rabbets/steps on the back to hold the glass.

Remove Screws
Begin on the bottom hinge and remove the screws with a power drill/driver. The magnetic top holds the screws and prevents them from dropping onto the floor. Have someone hold the door while you remove the last hinges.

Remove Doors
Remove the door and set it aside. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you detach and remove all the doors

Measure Old Door
Use one of the old doors as a template for the new doors and take measurements of height and width, and placement of hinges. The original doors were solid, but we will construct open frames with one-by-three solid poplar strips purchased at the home improvement center.

Adjust Miter Saw
Adjust the work-stop on the miter saw stand to the required length. The stop slides along the rail to the desired measurement. When you butt the end of the poplar against the stop and cut, you consistently cut the poplar strips to the exact dimension and ensure that the doors will be square.

Cut Framing Strips
Cut the framing strips of the doors to length using a sliding compound miter saw. Although the saw will make compound miters, we will make only straight cuts with it. You will need two long and two short lengths for each door cut to the measurements taken from the old door.

Prepare Half Lap Joints
Use a hand-held router to prepare half lap joints on the ends of several boards at one time. We clamped four poplar boards together with their ends flush but extended beyond the underlying work surface for clearance. We adjusted the fence about three inches from the end of the boards and let the router travels along the fence as we notch out half the thickness of the boards for the lap. The routed areas will all be the same dimension, so repeat this step on all the component poplar pieces without re-adjusting the fence. For our project, we have four doors with two sides, a top and a bottom

Place Glue into Container
Put some yellow wood glue in a clean can or other narrow container that is wide enough to use with a small brush. Applying wood glue with a brush is neater with a brush and ensures an even coating. You can always add more glue to the can, so do not overfill it.

Apply Glue
Brush glue on the laps on two pieces of poplar that represent a side and a top or bottom of the cabinet door.

Form a Corner
Form a corner by lapping the two pieces together at right angles to each other to that the edges are flush.

Clamp Lap Joint
Ensure the lap joint is square by butting a framing square against the inside of the corner and then clamping the joined pieces temporarily to your work surface.

Drive Brades into Four Corners
Drive brads into the four corners of the joint with a pneumatic pin nailer to hold the joint together until the glue dries. Repeat steps 9 through 12 to form lap joints for the other sides until you have a rectangular frame for the cabinet door. While one door dries, assemble the other doors in the same manner.

Prepare Router
Mount a round-over bit with a ball bearing on your router.

Route Edges of Each Doorframe
Route the sharp inner and outer edges on the front of each doorframe to a leave a smooth curved surface. The ball bearing will help to guide the router around the inside and outside perimeters. Route the fronts of all the doors.

Flip Frame
Flip the first frame over so the back is upward.

Router Interior Edge to Create a Rabbet
Mount a rabbeting bit with a ball bearing on your router. Again, the ball bearing guides the router along the intended surface and prevents the bit from cutting too deeply. Route the interior edge to create a ledge/rabbet for the glass to sit it. Route the back of all the doors to make rabbets for the glass panel.

Make Two Shallow Cuts
Chisel out the wood left by the rabbeting bit in the corners. Place the flat side of the chisel toward the vertical sides of the corner and tap with a hammer to make two shallow cuts that meet at the corner.

Pare Material from Rabbet
Turn the chisel over, beveled side down, and carefully pare away the material from the floor of the rabbet at the corner. Repeat steps 18 through 19 for all the corners and doors.

Make Rabbet on Back of Frame
Repeat steps 16 through 19 to make another rabbet on the back of the frame, this time on the outside edge. This rabbet will be marginally wider, but not deeper and will allow the door to fit inside the cabinet opening and lap over the edge for a good fit. Follow the process in this step for all the doors.

Apply Coat of Paint
Apply a coat of paint to the cabinet doorframes, after filling any nail holes. Painting the doors without the glass is much easier than painting with the glass in place. Let the paint dry.

Insert Glass
Insert the glass in the first door.

Position Keeper Strips
Prepare and position four painted keeper strips to hold the glass panel in the doors.

Drive Nails to Secure Keeper Strips
Use a brad pusher to drive in tiny nails to secure the keeper strips. The brad pusher has a magnetized end to help hold the nail while you drive it.

Tap on Bard with Hammer
Tap on the brad keeper with a hammer to finish driving the brad into the keeper strip. Work gently around the glass, repeating steps 22 through 25 to install glass and four keeper strips on each door.

Mount Hinges
Mount the hinges on the doors, pre-drilling with a self-centering bit after positioning them according to the template/old door. Drive in screws.

Attach Door Hinges
Attach the door hinges to the hinge plates on the hanging cabinets with a screwdriver.