Learn how to replace your kitchen window with a dual-pane garden window that doubles as a greenhouse for herbs and flowers.
Replacing the kitchen window with a garden window that doubles as a mini-greenhouse provides an ideal spot for indoor gardening of herbs and flowers and makes the kitchen feel bigger. We used a high-quality window product with dual-paned glass that also ensures good insulation from heat and cold.
Step by Step Instructions with Video
Step
1
Purchase the Window and Materials and Assemble Your Tools
Select and purchase the desired brand and size of garden window for your replacement project. Assemble your tools and materials and be sure to wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, since you will be using nail guns and power saws.
Step
2
Remove the Sliding Panel from Your Window
Lift the sliding glass panel in the original window up from the bottom track and pull it outward at the bottom edge to remove it. In our project, the original window had one fixed and one sliding glass panel.
Step
3
Remove the Screens, Working from the Outside
Remove the screens from the outside. Use the same process, lifting them off the track and pulling the bottom edge free.
Step
4
Loosen the Center Track with a Hammer and Pry Bar
Use a hammer and small pry bar to loosen the center brace/track.
Step
5
List Out the Stationary Panel and Dispose of the Old Glass
Lift out the stationary glass panel. Dispose of this panel and the sliding panel properly.
Step
6
Score the Layers of Paint Around the Exterior Window Trim
Use a utility knife to cut through the paint layers in preparation for removing the exterior trim immediately beside the window. Score along the top and both sides of the window opening wherever the wooden trim covers the aluminum window frame. Cutting is required because these multiple coats of paint applied over time can form a thick layer that acts like glue and makes trim removal difficult.
Step
7
Pry Off the Trim with Hammer and Pry Bar
Tap gently with a hammer and pry bar in the cuts just scored and pry off the trim.
Step
8
Score and Remove Caulking Around the Aluminum Window Frame
Score and remove any caulking that seals the edge of the old aluminum window frame.
Step
9
Tap Against the Inside of the Aluminum Frame with a Hammer and Wooden Block
Work from the interior side of the window and, using a small wooden block and hammer, tap along the edges of the window frame to dislodge it. Start at the four corners and progress along the edges as necessary.
Step
10
Remove and Discard the Aluminum Frame
Remove the aluminum frame and discard it.
Step
11
Loosen Nails in the Wooden Window Frame with the Prongs of a Nail Remover
Loosen the nails in the original wooden window frame with a hammer and nail remover. First, drive the sharp prongs under the nail head with the hammer.
Step
12
Flip the Nail Remover and Rock Its Rounded Head Under the Nail Against the Frame
Flip the nail remover over and finish removing the nails with the other end, rocking the rounded head of the tool against the wooden frame.
Step
13
Work Outside the Window and remove the Wooden Frame
Pull the wooden frame free from the opening, working from a position outside your home. If the frame fits snugly, you may need to pull a little on all four edges so that the frame backs out of the opening without warping and binding.
Step
14
Build Up the Bottom Sill with a Two-by-four
Build up the bottom sill which is low (relative to the interior window opening) by attaching a two-by-four cut to measure. Use a butane-powered nail gun to secure the two-by-four.
Step
15
Nail a Wooden Shim to the Top Edge of the Frame as a Spacer
Nail a thin strip of wood/shim to space out the top edge of the frame.
Step
16
Secure Finish Trim Strips with a Butane-powered Nail Gun
Secure trim strips around the entire perimeter with the nail gun. This trim will be visible when the garden window installation is completed.
Step
17
Cut Away Some Wooden Siding to Expose the Two-by-four House Framing Around the Window
Expose the two-by-four framing around the window by cutting away some of the exterior wooden siding. Draw cut marks as a guide and then use a small hand-held cordless power saw to make the cuts. Having a lightweight tool makes this type of in-place cutting easier.
Step
18
Remove the Cut Wooden Siding
Remove the siding. Your fingers are probably the best tool for the job, but a small pry bar and hammer will help on stubborn pieces.
Step
19
Insert Waterproof Flashing paper Behind the Wooden Sheathing
Insert waterproof flashing paper behind the window's wooden sheathing as the first step in waterproofing the new window installation. Make sure that each upper piece of flashing overlaps the piece beneath it.
Step
20
tape the Flashing Paper Down Temporarily with Painter's Tape
Fold the extra width of the flashing paper back over the siding and hold it temporarily with painter's tape or masking tape.
Step
21
Apply Exterior Silicon Caulking Around the Window's Edge for Waterproofing
Apply a generous bead of exterior silicon caulking around the entire edge of the window opening. This is the second step in waterproofing the window. It will provide a good seal between the wooden frame and the nailing fin/flange on the new window.
Step
22
Life th Garden Window into Place with the Help of Another Person
Lift the new garden window into place. The unit will be heavy, so arrange to have a second person assist you and hold it as necessary.
Step
23
Secure the New Window with Rust-resistant Screws
Secure the window by driving rust-resistant screws through the nailing flange into the house framing with a power driver.
Step
24
Add Another Bead of Caulk
Add another bead of caulk around the perimeter.
Step
25
Remove the Tape and Fold the Flashing Paper Against the New Window
Remove the tape and fold the excess lip of flashing paper outwards against the edge of the new window.
Step
26
Trim Away the Excess Flashing Paper
Trim off the excess flashing paper with a utility knife.
Step
27
Nail Wooden Filler Strips on Top of the Flashing Paper
Add wooden filler strips on top of the paper and secure them with the butane powered nail gun. These strips will provide a nailing surface for the new trim.
Step
28
Apply Caulking to the Strips of Finishing Trim
Apply caulking to the strips of final trim. Pre-paint the trim before caulking and mounting it to save some time and then touched up lightly to cover signs of installation.
Step
29
Nail the Trim Strips in Place and Paint/Touch Up As Necessary
Set the trim strips in position. We have used lap joints, ensuring the horizontal upper and lower trim strips cover the porous ends of the vertical side trim. Secure them permanently with the nail gun. Caulk the nail holes and crevices at the joints and then paint--or touch up to camouflage the caulk with a dab of paint if you pre-painted.