Draw a Plan for the Fence Location for Your Property
Draw a plan of your property and the desired location for the fence. We elect to separate the back yard from the front yard by looping the fence sharply back on itself at both sides of the house--a little like an hourglass configuration. That leaves the fence as one continuous circuit, but effectively prevents the dogs from migrating from the front yard to the back unless their humans allow them passage through the gate at the breezeway. The perimeter of the fenced area will be located just short of the drip line of the property's trees to avoid ticks that can infest the dogs. That location should also prevent damage to the tree roots when we dig for the fence.

Mark the Fence Location with Wire Flags
Mark the anticipated fence location with wire flags. These will show where the cable should be buried and be a visual cue to dogs as they learn the boundaries during initial training.

Use a Gasoline Powered Tool to Cut the Sod and Bury the Cable
Use a gasoline powered machine that slices the sod and ground and buries the wire deep in the cut in a single step. The process is fairly fast, enabling us to bury 1000-plus feet of cable in less than 30 minutes.

Tamp the Soil and Sod into Place with Your Foot
Use your foot to tamp the cut sod and dirt back into place as you walk behind the machine in your yard.

Rent a Gasoline-powered Saw to Cut Through the Driveway
Rent appropriate tools from the home improvement store to handle obstacles to your particular fencing project. In our project, the obstacle is an asphalt driveway, so we rented a rolling gasoline powered saw with a 14-inch masonry blade.

Snap a Chalk Line Across the Driveway as a Cut Line
Snap a chalk line across the driveway to mark a cutting line. We aligned our chalk line with the gaps between edging stones that border both sides of the drive, as we did with the actual cuts in the sod earlier.

Center the Saw Blade and Cut on the Line
Center the blade on the line as you roll the unit across the drive and cut the asphalt. Be sure to wear eye and ear protection as you work.

Run the Cable Across the Driveway and Tamp It into the Slot
Run the cable in the slot you just cut and tamp it down with a thin plastic tool such as a putty knife. Do not use a tool with a sharp blade because it might nick the cable insulation.

Fill the Slot with Asphalt Sealant
Fill the slot on the driveway with a sealant made for asphalt drives. Be neat, but overfill the crack slightly in case the sealant settles before hardening.

Strip the Wire to Prepare for a Splice
Prepare to splice the cable, as necessary. Dig a small shallow hole where the splice will be made to leave a little room to work. Strip off 3/4-inch of the cable insulation with wire strippers.

Twist the Ends Together with a Wire Nut
Twist the two ends of the cable together with a wire nut.

Insert the Wire Nut into the Gel-filled Connector
Insert the wire nut into a special splice wire connector/capsule that is filled with a non-hardening and non-petroleum-based gel that waterproofs the splice. Push the nut all the way to the bottom of the connector so that it forces the gel to the top and covers the wire nut. Snap the connector closed.

Bury the Connector and Tamp the Dirt and Sod into the Hole
Bury the connector in the hole; replace the dirt and sod, tamping them as necessary. Repeat as necessary for other splices.

Bore a Hole into the Garage
Bore an unobtrusive hole near the ground in the garage wall to bring the cable inside.

Thread the Wire Through the Hole to the Transmitter Location
Thread the wire through the hole and pull it to the location where you will mount the dog fence transmitter.

Drive the Transmitter's Screw into the Wall and Mount It
Drive the transmitter's screw into the wall on the inside of the garage and simply hang the transmitter on it to mount.

Read the Directions on the Transmitter
Read the directions and warnings on the transmitter.

Attach the Cable Wires to the Transmitter Terminals
Attach the ends of the cable/wire loop to the terminals in the transmitter. First, strip off 3/4-inch of insulation, then wrap the bare wire around the terminal screws and tighten them.

Staple the Cable to the Wall
Use arched staples to secure the cable on the wall from the entry point into the garage up to the transmitter.

Plug in the AC-adapter
Plug the AC-adapter into the electrical outlet to step down the voltage to the correct level to power the transmitter and fence.

Insert the Adapter Cable into the Transmitter
Insert the other end of the adapter cable into the side of the transmitter. Two red indicator lights should illuminate. The first light indicates that the dog fence is receiving electrical power. The second light confirms that the fence loop is continuous without breaks.

Test the Dog Collar
Test the correction collar before putting it on your dog, by holding it in your hand with your fingers on the terminals as you approach the fence. You will want to ensure that the collar is working and may wish to experience the corrective shock for yourself to know what your pet will feel.

Accustom the Dog to the Fence
Put the collar on the dog and walk her on a leash toward the fence. When the beeper sounds, back the dog away, barely letting the pet feel the low-level corrective shock.