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Outdoors > More outdoor > How to Build a Garbage Enclosure

Learn how to construct an outside garbage enclosure that is attractive and animal-resistant.

Build a garbage storage enclosure outdoors, out-of-sight, and out-of-reach to the creatures who view the garbage as a tasty meal. The enclosure consists primarily of a cabinet with a hinged lid and front-opening doors that both allow easy access to the garbage cans. The structure will sit on a base frame of pressure-treated two-by-fours and decking. Painted tongue-and-groove panels will cover the upper frame of the enclosure to create a convenient, good looking, and tamper-proof place to storage the trash until the scheduled weekly garbage pickup.

Step by Step Instructions with Video

Step
1

Plan the Project and Diagram the Enclosure

Plan the dimensions of your project, possibly drawing a diagram. Make a cut list of the pieces that you will need. Setting up jigs/guides to cut all the piece of like dimension at the same time will save time and ensure uniform lengths. Assemble tools and materials. Keep in mind the need for safety glasses and a face mask, because you will be using power tools and sawing chemically-treated lumber.

Step
2

Cut the Base Frame from Pressure-treated Two-by-fours

Measure and cut all the pieces for the base frame from pressure-treated two-by-fours, because it will rest on the ground exposed to insects and moisture. Working with the dimensions on your plan, cut two long and two short components for the outer frame, and two slightly shorter stringers for interior bracing. We use a sliding compound miter saw, but a chop saw will do a good job on these straight cuts.

Step
3

Pre-drill Shank-holes for Driving the Screws

Pre-drill clearance or shank-holes on the short pieces where they will overlap the long pieces in a corner joint. The holes will allow the screws to go through the wood a little faster and help drive them straight.

Step
4

Lap the Two-by-fours and Drive in the Screws to Make the Rim

Use a hammer drill to drive screws through the holes in the lapping two-by-fours and into the ends of the joining components to make the outer frame or rim.

Step
5

Position Stringers Inside the Rim

Position the stringers at equal distances along the long interior side of the rim. They should fit snugly, so you may need to tap them into place. Ensure they meet the sides at right angles with a combination square.

Step
6

Drive Screws Through the Rim into the Stringers

Drive screws through the face of the long two-by-four components into the ends of each stringer.

Step
7

Rotate the Rim and Secure the Other End of the Stringers

Rotate the assembly to drive screws to hold the other end of the stringers.

Step
8

Cut Decking from 1 1/4-Inch Pressure-treated Planks

Cut the decking to length from 1 1/4-inch pressure-treated planks.

Step
9

Align the First Plank at the Front of the Base

Align a decking plank flush on the ends and front side of the base you just constructed. Start at the front of the base.

Step
10

Secure the Plank with Screws

Drive screws downwards through the plank and into the base frame. Shank-holes are not required because the screws are fairly short and the wood is soft.

Step
11

Allow 1/8-Inch Drainage Gaps Between the First and Each Successive Plank

Place the next plank, allowing a 1/8-inch gap between it and the first plank to allow for drainage. Temporarily standing a sixteen-penny nail between the planks provides the correct spacing. Position all the planks in this manner and secure them with screws, driving the screws through the planks and into the stringers as well as the rim of the outer frame.

Step
12

Measure the Space for the Last Plank and Rip the Wood to Fit

Measure the available space for the last plank along the back of the base and rip the wood to the correct width on your table saw.

Step
13

Lay Out Four Lengths of Two-by-two for the Side Frames

Lay out the pieces for one of the two vertical side frames next, after cutting them to length from two-by-two lumber. Refer to your plan to confirm dimensions prior to cutting. You will need a pair of long sides and a shorter top and bottom.

Step
14

Align and Clamp the Sides While You Apply Glue

Align and clamp the long sides of one frame to your workbench. Apply glue to top and bottom components, only on the surfaces where they will overlap. Use polyurethane glue since the enclosure will be subjected to extremes in temperature and moisture in its outside location. Let the glue dry.

Step
15

Strengthen the Lapped Joints with Screws

Drive screws through the lapped joints to secure the frame components and strengthen the corners.

Step
16

Cut Away Excess Glue with a Utility Knife

Use a utility knife to cut away any hardened glue that extruded from the joints as the polyurethane glue expanded.

Step
17

Use the Same Process to Construct Another Side Frame

Repeat the same process for the second vertical side frame.

Step
18

Cut the Rim Pieces and Stringers for the Back Frame and Assemble Them

Construct the back frame, after cutting the sides, top, bottom, and two stringers from the two-by-two lumber.

Step
19

Attach the Side Frames to the Base with Rust-resistant Screws

Attach the side frames to the base, clamping them in place first and then securing them with rust-resistant screws.

Step
20

Attach the back Frame to the Deck First and Then to the Side Frames

Set the back frame in place and secure it to the deck first and then to the side frames with rust resistant-screws.

Step
21

Clamp on Temporary Blocks to Hold a Front Cross Brace

Clamp temporary blocks on the front edge of both vertical frames to support a front cross brace.

Step
22

Cut and Secure the Cross Brace to Tie Together the Enclosure's Front

Cut and secure the cross brace across the front to tie the corners of the framework together and provide additional strength. The front will have doors that open, but will need additional support to hold the cabinet rigid and support the doors and lid. This step completes the skeletal frame.

Step
23

Cut Tongue-and-groove Panels for the Outer Surfaces

Cut enough rough lengths of tongue-and-groove paneling to cover the two sides and the back. You can also cut lengths for the lid, but check your plan for the correct length.

Step
24

Position and Hold the Pieces in Place While Tracing a Cut Line

Set and hold the pieces of tongue-and-groove paneling in place temporarily and draw a pencil line along the back edge where they meet the top of the side frame.

Step
25

Take Down the Pieces and Trim Them Along the Cut Line

Take the panels down and trim each one to length, cutting through the line you just drew. These straight cuts can be made with a chop saw or a sliding compound miter saw.

Step
26

Run Construction Adhesive on the Outer Face of the Side Frame

Run beads of construction adhesive along the outer face of the side frame. The adhesive will provide an additional bond against expansion and contraction of the panels with weather changes.

Step
27

Position and Secure the First Tongue-and-groove Panel

Set the first cut-to-length panel in place and secure it with a nail gun. Continue working across the surface to install the remaining panels on that side.

Step
28

Repeat the Steps to Cut and Attach Panels to the Back and the Second Side

Repeat the same steps to cut and attach tongue-and-groove panels for the back and the second side of the enclosure.

Step
29

Cut Tongue-and-groove Panels for the Doors and Lid

Cut tongue-and-groove panels to length for the doors and Lid. Fit the pieces for one door together, face down on your workbench.

Step
30

Position Battens Across the Back About 4-Inches from the Top and Bottom

Lay one-by-three battens (supports) across the back about 4-inches from the top and bottom.

Step
31

Drive Countersunk Rust-resistant Screws Through the Battens into the Doors

Pre-drill countersunk holes and then drive rust-resistant screws through the battens into the back surface of the door to hold the tongue-and-groove panels together.

Step
32

Add Another Batten Diagonally Between the First Two to Prevent the Door from Sagging

Lay another one-by-three batten diagonally across the opposing ends of the two battens just secured to the back of the door. Measure and cut it as a diagonal brace with mitered ends to fit between the two battens at a 45-degree angle. Secure the brace with rust-resistant screws. The brace will prevent the doors from sagging and provide additional rigidity. Assemble the other door in the same manner. For symmetry, angle the brace on the second door in the opposite direction. Construct the lid in a similar manner.

Step
33

Paint the Enclosure and Allow It to Dry

Paint or stain the enclosure and allow it to dry. In this project, we painted it the same color as the house to make it unobtrusive.

Step
34

Dig a 4-Inch Deep Rectangle in the Ground for the Enclosure's Base

Edge a rectangle in the dirt where the enclosure will stand and dig out about four inches of soil. If the front edge of the hole meets high grass or ground, you may want to taper the edge so that nothing impedes opening and closing the doors. Similarly, if the spot you have chosen is low and likely to pool moisture, you may need to build up the elevation, instead.

Step
35

Lay Down Landscape Cloth to Prevent Weed Growth But Allow Drainage

Lay down landscaping fabric to prevent weed growth but still allow drainage.

Step
36

Add Several Inches of Gravel

Add several inches of gravel on top of the landscaping fabric. Rake it out until the layer is even.

Step
37

Add Hinges, Handles, and a Latch to the Enclosure

Attach the hardware for the door hinges, handles, and latch, after setting the enclosure in place. Next attach the hinges on the lid. You may now open the enclosure by lifting the lid or by lifting the latch and swinging open the doors.