Learn how to construct a built-in television cabinet that looks like the walls and has a framed opening for the television screen.
A damaged television entertainment center yields its place to a home-built cabinet designed to look like the wall in color and texture. Its built-in look will blend better with the room's decor and be less conspicuous than the massive piece of wooden furniture it replaces. The cabinet we build will consist of two sides, two shelves, a top and a bottom--all enclosed by a front panel with openings for the television screen and the various components of the entertainment system. Decorative trim frames the television opening for a finishing touch.
Plan the project to determine size and requirements for replacing the existing furniture/cabinet. Assemble the required materials and tools, purchasing several sheets of 3/4-inch plywood--milled lumber is not necessary, because you will be adding texture and paint over the raw wood. This project requires use of power tools and will generate sawdust, so be sure to wear safety glasses and a dust mask.
Measure the depth of the television from front to back and add several inches of clearance to establish the front-to-back depth of the cabinet. Determine the size of openings for the other electronic components in the entertainment system and for a ventilation grate in the top. Record these dimensions along with the required length and width for a top, bottom, side, front, and shelf panels. Making brown-paper patterns for the pieces and laying them out on the plywood may help you make the best use of the plywood sheets with minimal waste.
Transfer the measurements to the plywood stock for the side panels and attach a long self-clamping straightedge along the marks for the panel widths. Position the guide so that the distance from the straightedge to the mark on the plywood is the exact distance of the circular saw's blade to the exterior edge of its foot. That adjustment lets you run the foot along the straightedge and have the blade exactly on the line.
Cut out panels of the correct width for the two side panels with the circular saw. When properly positioned, the straightedge guarantees a perfectly square cut.
Position a shorter self-clamping straightedge on the marks and cross cut the side panels to the correct lengths.
Use the same techniques for cutting panels for the top, bottom, two shelves, and a front. The top and bottom panels will be slightly inset from each end of the side panels--to allow space to attach concealed caster wheels on the bottom and a grate over a ventilation opening in the top. Additionally, the shelves will not be as deep as the front-to-back dimension of the sides to allow clearance for running wires to the television and other components.
Align and clamp on the straightedge after laying the front panel flat across your work surface and marking rectangular openings for the television and other entertainment components. (You will also need to mark and cut an appropriately sized rectangular opening in the top panel to accommodate a ventilation grate.) Elevate the plywood from your work surface to leave space beneath the cutting area and then cut the openings.
Use a reasonably large wood bit on your power drill to make starter holes at the four corners of each rectangular cut line.
Insert the blade of you jigsaw into the hole and saw along the cut lines to excise the two rectangles of wood and make the openings on the front panels. Use the same method to cut an opening in the top panel.
Lift out the cutouts, if necessary. They may fall through or sag and pressure the saw blade if you do not support them until you finish the cuts. To support them, cut one side of the rectangle and then position a temporary wooden block over the cut and screw it only to the cutout (not the front panel). Work around to the fourth side, but before you finish the cut, attach another temporary block to support that side. Once you finish the cut, lift out the cutouts that still have the support blocks attached.
Position the self-clamping straightedge on the front panel so that you can use a router (rotary cutting tool) to clean up the edges of the jigsaw cuts you just made. Adjust the router's cutter to cut the full thickness of the plywood. The distance from the straightedge to the edge of the opening in the plywood must be the exact distance of the cutter to the outside of the router's round base.
Run the router along the top, bottom, and side edges of both openings in the front panel to straighten them and make them both smooth and "square".
Route matching pairs of dados/grooves on the two side panels to fit the top, bottom, and shelves, after marking the exact locations and positioning the self-clamping straightedge as a guide. You will also need to adjust the depth of the cutter in the router for cut only half the thickness of the plywood. In a later step, the panels will slide into the dados/grooves on each side to join the cabinet components and make the joints stronger.
Brush wood glue into the dado for the cabinet top--on one side panel only.
Stand one of the side panels on edge to expose the dados, and slide the top of the cabinet into the dado.
Pre-drill the screw holes with a countersunk bit to facilitate driving the screws and preventing the wood from splitting.
Have a helper hold the joint together while you drive screws through the side and into the end of the top panel.
Use this process of first gluing the dados and then driving screws to attach the shelves, top, and bottom permanently to one side panel.
Turn the partially assembled cabinet, so that it rests temporarily on the side panel's flat surface with the shelves, top and bottom standing upright. In this position, the assembly leaves some room on the workbench for the other side panel
Set the second side panel on the work surface with the grooves facing upward and brush glue into all the dados. Have helpers turn the partially assembled cabinet back on its side while you hold the second side panel ready. Note that the depth of the shelves is less than the sides to allow clearance space for wiring.
Set the side panel on edge on the work surface and tilt it upwards to meet the ends of the top, bottom, and shelves. You may need to align them slightly to fit them into the dados on the side panel. Tap the back surface of the side panel to ensure the cross panels seat properly in the dados.
Use a carpenter's square and pencil to mark the outer face of the side panel where the top, bottom, and shelves intersect it on the interior surface.
Pre-drill countersunk holes through the side panel into the ends of the top, bottom and shelves.
Drive in screws through the countersunk holes to secure the top, bottom, and shelf panels and add strength to the joints.
Apply glue to the front edges of the cabinet.
Lay the front panel in place, positioning the sides flush with the edges of the side panels.
Pre-drill countersunk holes through the front into the side panels and permanently attach the front to the cabinet with screws. The addition of the front adds strength and rigidity to the entire assembly.
Hide the slight depressions around the countersunk screw heads, filling them with auto body filler. The material will become firm in a matter of minutes and then harden completely. Sand the filler and the overall surface of the cabinet lightly where necessary. You will be applying a textured surface, so only very rough areas will need sanding.
Position and screw on four concealed casters on the floor side of the bottom panel to enable easy access to the television/equipment by rolling it away from the wall. If necessary, add a plywood spacer to ensure that the wheels reach the floor.
Set the cabinet upright over a tarpaulin or sheet of plastic to protect the floor.
Roll on a diluted mixture of drywall joint compound and paint to provide a wall-like texture. Allow it to dry. You may need more texture to match the walls in your project.
Spray on material from an aerosol can to add a splattered texture. Hold the can about 18-inches away from the wall and spray evenly with a circular motion. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask.
Let the sprayed finish set for a few minutes and then use a drywall knife to knock down the high spots. The goal is to match the surface of the existing walls in the room where the cabinet will reside.
Apply a coat of paint. When it is dry, move the cabinet inside and set it face down on a clean tarpaulin that protects the rug/floor.
Add a grate to the top panel to cover the hole you cut for ventilation. Screw the grate in place.
Add decorative wood trim around the opening for the television, after cutting it with mitered corners and staining it for contrast.
Set the cabinet upright and install the television and other entertainment components.
