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Learn how to build a closet in an alcove.

The homeowner in our project wants to build a closet in an alcove off a carpeted room in her home. We will construct two short walls and add louvered doors, removing the carpet in the alcove area before we build the wall.

Step by Step Instructions with Video

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Step
1

Purchase Studs, Drywall and Louvered Doors/Fittings

Plan the project after taking measurements of the alcove to determine the depth, height, and width. Purchase studs, drywall, and louvered doors/fittings as appropriate to build short walls and install the doors.
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Step
2

Measure Ceiling of Alcove

Measure the ceiling of the alcove, as the first building step, to determine the actual depth of the closet space.

Step
3

Transfer Measurement to Wall/Baseboard

Transfer the measurement to the wall/baseboard at floor level on both sides of the alcove.

Step
4

Lay a Strip of Masking Tape on the Carpet

Lay a strip of masking tape on top of the carpet from wall to wall across the front of the alcove between the two transfer marks. Center the masking tape on the transfer marks.

Step
5

Stretch a Chalk Line

Stretch a chalk line down the center of the masking tape, and snap it to transfer the mark all the way across the front of the alcove on top of the masking tape.

Step
6

Cut Through Carpet

Use a straight edge and a utility knife to cut through the carpet along the chalk line.

Step
7

Pull up Carpet

Pull up all the carpet from the cut line to the back of the alcove.

Step
8

Pry off Baseboard

Use a pry bar and a wide putty knife to pry off the baseboard at the back and two sides of the alcove. As you pry, put the putty knife between the wall and the pry bar to avoid scarring the sheetrock or plaster. Reinstall baseboard when the project is complete if the material is not damaged during removal?otherwise, replace it.

Step
9

Pre-drill Clearance Holes

Butt a 14-inch length of two-by-four against the existing wall at the front edge of the alcove. This piece will serve as a bottom plate to secure the new wall construction to the concrete floor. During planning, we established a 14-inch width for the two short walls we will build at opposite ends of the alcove - that dimension governs the length of the bottom and top plates. Pre-drill clearance holes at each end of the bottom plate, boring just far enough to mark the concrete. Set the bottom plate aside.

Step
10

Mark the Length of the Lead Anchor on the Bit

Switch to a masonry bit on the power drill. Measure a lead anchor against the end of the bit, and wrap a piece of black tape around the bit to mark the length of the lead anchor.

Step
11

Drill into the Concrete

Drill straight down into the concrete, using the bottom edge of the tape as a guide to the depth of the holes. Stop drilling when the bottom edge of the tape reaches the concrete.

Step
12

Insert Lead Anchor

Insert the lead anchor and tap it in with a hammer until it is flush with the floor.

Step
13

Slip a Lag Bolt into the Hole and Secure to Lead Anchor

Reposition the bottom plate, slip a lag bolt into the hole, and secure it to the lead anchor. Tighten the bolt with a socket wrench until it is snug. Repeat steps 9 through 13 to make and secure another bottom plate on the other side of the alcove.

Step
14

Install 14-inch Top Plates

Install 14-inch top plates cut from two-by-fours on the ceiling (directly above each bottom plate). Drive screws at both ends to secure the plates to the wooden header that supports the open edge of the alcove.

Step
15

Measure and Cut Two 2x4 Studs

Measure the vertical distance between the surfaces of the top and bottom plates and use a chop saw to cut a pair of two-by-four studs to that length.

Step
16

Slide Stud Between Plates

Slide the first cut stud between the plates at their wall ends and butt it against the wall.

Step
17

Drill Countersunk Pilot Holes

Drill a pair of countersunk pilot holes at each end of the stud and insert drywall screws to attach it. Slide another stud between the plates at their interior ends (where the doors will be mounted), attaching it with countersunk drywalls screws in the same manner.

Step
18

Attach 2x4 with Drywall Screws

Add a piece of two-by-four, inserting it horizontally between the two studs to add rigidity and attaching it with drywall screws. Repeat steps 15 through 18 to frame the short wall on the other side of the alcove.

Step
19

Re-measure Two Framing Structures

Re-measure the exact height and width of the two framing structures you have just built.

Step
20

Transfer Measurements to Wallboard

Transfer the measurements in pencil to the front of a piece of wallboard and use a straightedge and sharp utility knife to score along the line.

Step
21

Fold Board Backwards Along the Score

Turn the board over and fold it backwards along the score just made.

Step
22

Cut Along Surface of Fold

Use the utility knife again to cut along the surface of the fold.

Step
23

Snap Scored Wallboard in Two

Set the scored wallboard down on the floor and snap it in two.

Step
24

Secure Wallboard with Drywall Screws

Place the cut wallboard against the outside face of the framing and secure it with drywall screws. Screw them in far enough to insure that the heads are below the surface, but do not tear the paper. You will need to fill in these depressions later with drywall joint compound. Repeat steps 19 through 24 three more times, until you have faced and backed both framing structures with wallboard.

Step
25

Use a Level

Use a level to ensure that the vertical edges and the horizontal wooden header are level. In our project, the header was not level.

Step
26

Insert Several Shims

Insert several shims between a doorjamb (cut from one-by-four trim) and the header anywhere required to make the jamb level. If necessary, stack one shim on top of another for additional thickness. Nail through the jamb and the shims to secure them permanently in place. Cut and install the vertical pieces of the one-by-four doorjamb.

Step
27

Score and Snap Protruding ends of the Shims

Score the protruding ends of the shims with a utility knife and then snap them off flush with the edge of the jamb.

Step
28

Measure Thickness of Louvered Doors

Measure the thickness of the purchased louvered doors.

Step
29

Transfer Measurement to Jamb

Transfer that measurement to the edge of the jamb, using a combination square.

Step
30

Install Piece of Molding

Install a piece of molding along that measurement to stop the doors from swinging backwards into the closet. Use a pneumatic nail gun to nail it in place.

Step
31

Seal Joints Between New and Pre-Existing Wallboards

Seal the joints between the new wallboard and the pre-existing wall, pressing self-sticking perforated joint tape into the corners.

Step
32

Apply Joint Compound

Apply joint compound to the tape and use the flat side of the putty knife to press the compound into the perforations on the tape to create a seamless surface. Cover all nail holes and other imperfections with a light coat of joint compound. Two thin coats will dry faster than one thick coat and will require less sanding later.

Step
33

Cut and Nail Doorway Casing

Cut and nail in place the doorway casing to conceal the gap between the wallboard and the three sides of the doorjamb.

Step
34

Pre-drill Pilot Holes

Pre-drill pilot holes for all the non-mortised (surface-mounted) hinges, using a self-centering bit after positioning the hinges properly. Standards exist for positioning door hinges, but the safest approach is to measure and match the placement of hinges on other doors in your home. Be particularly careful when installing side-by-side/pairs of louvered doors to ensure that the hinges occupy identical positions--any elevation differences between the hung doors will be very noticeable. In our project, the upper hinge is about 7 inches from the door top, the middle hinge is about 36 inches from the door top, and the bottom hinge is about 11 inches from the door bottom.

Step
35

Screw Hinges to Jamb

Set the doors into position, leaving bottom clearance to avoid rubbing the carpet, and screw the hinges to the jamb. Finish by priming and painting the joint compound once it has dried, adding doorknobs of your choice, and replacing the carpet or other flooring.