Purchase Studs, Drywall and Louvered Doors/Fittings
Plan the project after taking measurements of the alcove to determine the depth, height, and width. Purchase studs, drywall, and louvered doors/fittings as appropriate to build short walls and install the doors.

Measure Ceiling of Alcove
Measure the ceiling of the alcove, as the first building step, to determine the actual depth of the closet space.

Transfer Measurement to Wall/Baseboard
Transfer the measurement to the wall/baseboard at floor level on both sides of the alcove.

Lay a Strip of Masking Tape on the Carpet
Lay a strip of masking tape on top of the carpet from wall to wall across the front of the alcove between the two transfer marks. Center the masking tape on the transfer marks.

Stretch a Chalk Line
Stretch a chalk line down the center of the masking tape, and snap it to transfer the mark all the way across the front of the alcove on top of the masking tape.

Cut Through Carpet
Use a straight edge and a utility knife to cut through the carpet along the chalk line.

Pull up Carpet
Pull up all the carpet from the cut line to the back of the alcove.

Pry off Baseboard
Use a pry bar and a wide putty knife to pry off the baseboard at the back and two sides of the alcove. As you pry, put the putty knife between the wall and the pry bar to avoid scarring the sheetrock or plaster. Reinstall baseboard when the project is complete if the material is not damaged during removal?otherwise, replace it.

Pre-drill Clearance Holes
Butt a 14-inch length of two-by-four against the existing wall at the front edge of the alcove. This piece will serve as a bottom plate to secure the new wall construction to the concrete floor. During planning, we established a 14-inch width for the two short walls we will build at opposite ends of the alcove - that dimension governs the length of the bottom and top plates. Pre-drill clearance holes at each end of the bottom plate, boring just far enough to mark the concrete. Set the bottom plate aside.

Mark the Length of the Lead Anchor on the Bit
Switch to a masonry bit on the power drill. Measure a lead anchor against the end of the bit, and wrap a piece of black tape around the bit to mark the length of the lead anchor.

Drill into the Concrete
Drill straight down into the concrete, using the bottom edge of the tape as a guide to the depth of the holes. Stop drilling when the bottom edge of the tape reaches the concrete.

Insert Lead Anchor
Insert the lead anchor and tap it in with a hammer until it is flush with the floor.

Slip a Lag Bolt into the Hole and Secure to Lead Anchor
Reposition the bottom plate, slip a lag bolt into the hole, and secure it to the lead anchor. Tighten the bolt with a socket wrench until it is snug. Repeat steps 9 through 13 to make and secure another bottom plate on the other side of the alcove.

Install 14-inch Top Plates
Install 14-inch top plates cut from two-by-fours on the ceiling (directly above each bottom plate). Drive screws at both ends to secure the plates to the wooden header that supports the open edge of the alcove.

Measure and Cut Two 2x4 Studs
Measure the vertical distance between the surfaces of the top and bottom plates and use a chop saw to cut a pair of two-by-four studs to that length.

Slide Stud Between Plates
Slide the first cut stud between the plates at their wall ends and butt it against the wall.

Drill Countersunk Pilot Holes
Drill a pair of countersunk pilot holes at each end of the stud and insert drywall screws to attach it. Slide another stud between the plates at their interior ends (where the doors will be mounted), attaching it with countersunk drywalls screws in the same manner.

Attach 2x4 with Drywall Screws
Add a piece of two-by-four, inserting it horizontally between the two studs to add rigidity and attaching it with drywall screws. Repeat steps 15 through 18 to frame the short wall on the other side of the alcove.

Re-measure Two Framing Structures
Re-measure the exact height and width of the two framing structures you have just built.

Transfer Measurements to Wallboard
Transfer the measurements in pencil to the front of a piece of wallboard and use a straightedge and sharp utility knife to score along the line.

Fold Board Backwards Along the Score
Turn the board over and fold it backwards along the score just made.

Cut Along Surface of Fold
Use the utility knife again to cut along the surface of the fold.

Snap Scored Wallboard in Two
Set the scored wallboard down on the floor and snap it in two.

Secure Wallboard with Drywall Screws
Place the cut wallboard against the outside face of the framing and secure it with drywall screws. Screw them in far enough to insure that the heads are below the surface, but do not tear the paper. You will need to fill in these depressions later with drywall joint compound. Repeat steps 19 through 24 three more times, until you have faced and backed both framing structures with wallboard.

Use a Level
Use a level to ensure that the vertical edges and the horizontal wooden header are level. In our project, the header was not level.

Insert Several Shims
Insert several shims between a doorjamb (cut from one-by-four trim) and the header anywhere required to make the jamb level. If necessary, stack one shim on top of another for additional thickness. Nail through the jamb and the shims to secure them permanently in place. Cut and install the vertical pieces of the one-by-four doorjamb.

Score and Snap Protruding ends of the Shims
Score the protruding ends of the shims with a utility knife and then snap them off flush with the edge of the jamb.

Measure Thickness of Louvered Doors
Measure the thickness of the purchased louvered doors.

Transfer Measurement to Jamb
Transfer that measurement to the edge of the jamb, using a combination square.

Install Piece of Molding
Install a piece of molding along that measurement to stop the doors from swinging backwards into the closet. Use a pneumatic nail gun to nail it in place.

Seal Joints Between New and Pre-Existing Wallboards
Seal the joints between the new wallboard and the pre-existing wall, pressing self-sticking perforated joint tape into the corners.

Apply Joint Compound
Apply joint compound to the tape and use the flat side of the putty knife to press the compound into the perforations on the tape to create a seamless surface. Cover all nail holes and other imperfections with a light coat of joint compound. Two thin coats will dry faster than one thick coat and will require less sanding later.

Cut and Nail Doorway Casing
Cut and nail in place the doorway casing to conceal the gap between the wallboard and the three sides of the doorjamb.

Pre-drill Pilot Holes
Pre-drill pilot holes for all the non-mortised (surface-mounted) hinges, using a self-centering bit after positioning the hinges properly. Standards exist for positioning door hinges, but the safest approach is to measure and match the placement of hinges on other doors in your home. Be particularly careful when installing side-by-side/pairs of louvered doors to ensure that the hinges occupy identical positions--any elevation differences between the hung doors will be very noticeable. In our project, the upper hinge is about 7 inches from the door top, the middle hinge is about 36 inches from the door top, and the bottom hinge is about 11 inches from the door bottom.

Screw Hinges to Jamb
Set the doors into position, leaving bottom clearance to avoid rubbing the carpet, and screw the hinges to the jamb. Finish by priming and painting the joint compound once it has dried, adding doorknobs of your choice, and replacing the carpet or other flooring.