Custom framing can complete the character of photographs and other artwork to perfection, but having it made commercially in a frame shop may be costly. Building your own frame enhances the character and saves money, but also lends a certain satisfaction and personal touch to a work of art that is special to you. We have built our frame out of solid poplar in three different thicknesses: 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch. Stained and varnished, the frame sets off the photograph to perfection.

Determine whether the photograph and its mat board are "true" with 90-degree corners - if not, decide how you will compensate for the irregularities. Gauge how many feet of poplar you will need for the frame you are making. We have decided to make the frame of solid poplar in three different thicknesses (1/4, 1/2, and 3/4-inch), and all available at the local home improvement center. Measure the outside horizontal and vertical edges of the photograph and mat (for a rectangular work, you will have two different measurements for the sides versus top/bottom) and then add twice the width of the finished molding to each for an approximate finished length. Purchase four pieces of poplar in each of the three thicknesses and allow plenty of extra length on each of the 12 pieces to miter the ends.

Rip the 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4-inch poplar on the table saw to the proper width for your composite frame profile.

Shape the 3/4-inch poplar lengths for the base of the frame. With a hand-held router, the tool passes over your work, but with the router mounted under the router table, we will pass the work over the router.

Route the long edges of the 3/4-inch poplar pieces to make the base of the picture molding. Round only one edge on each piece.

Coat the surface of a 1/2-inch piece of poplar with carpenter's glue, using a glue spreader to cover the entire surface with a thin, uniform film.

Put the glued surface against one of the 3/4-inch pieces of popular, and wiggle it slightly to seat it in the glue. The back of the 1/2-inch piece should be flush with the back edge of the 3/4-inch routed piece, so that the rounded edge is free. The rounded edge represents the outside edge of the frame.

Route the outside edge of the 1/2-inch poplar component of the frame sandwich where it attaches to the 3/4-inch routed edge, using a core box bit on the table router. This process will make an S-shaped curve on the outer edge of the frame member. Route the remaining three sandwiched frame pieces in the same manner.

Use a straight bit on the router to cut a square notch on the back edge of the frame pieces- that is, on the bottom inside edge of each of the four composite members. This notch will serve as a rabbet or recess to hold the glass, matting, and photograph in place and conceal the edges.

Add a vertical and horizontal block to the router to support the thin 1/4-inch poplar lengths. Position the vertical block to butt against the top of the strip and the horizontal block to butt against the side as the strip passes through the router standing on its narrow edge. The blocks will hold the strip securely and stop it from chattering while you route it. Additionally, it enables your fingers remain a safe distance from the bit.

Pass each 1/4-inch piece through the router using a small round-over bit. For each piece, you will actually make two passes with the strip standing on the same edge - once to route the back lip and then rotating it end-to-end (with the same edge against the router bit) to route the front lip. The result will be a double rounded edge or bull nose resembling the letter "U" when viewed from the end.

Glue the 1/4-inch molding to the top of the composite frame member to create another detail in the molding profile. Repeat steps 11 and 12 for three other 1/4-inch frame pieces.

Attach a stop block with a 45-degree mitered/angled end to the guide to hold the poplar at the correct position while mitering the frame components. For a rectangular (versus square) frame, you will have two different lengths for sides versus top/bottom and, thus, two different stop block positions. Take the measurements using the outside dimension of your photograph/mat, subtract twice the width of the rabbet, and then cut the miter from the inside of the frame piece outward.

Apply a coat of carpenter's glue to the mitered ends of two pieces of molding--a long piece and a short piece if the finished frame will be a rectangle. Spread the glue in a generous coat, because the surface of the miter is end grain and will tend to soak up the glue.

Set the two pieces in position against the gluing jig so that the adjoining mitered ends butt tightly against each other with their backs pressed against the jig. The jig will hold them firmly in position in 90-degree angle for the corner.

Set glazier's points (used by window-installers to hold windowpanes in place) against the mat/glass and drive them into the wooden frame with a screwdriver. You may want to add a layer of additional backing such as foam core or other acid-free material to hold the photograph against the glass more uniformly. Acid-free materials will not leach onto the art or matting over time or cause damage.