How to Give a Built-in Bookcase Traditional Details

Ron paid a visit to Topsfield, Massachusetts, one of New England's first colonial farming communities, settled in 1639. A number of 18th century homes still stand here, including the home of Olaf and Kristen Krohg. Their home was built in 1761, and the couple has been working to restore the dwelling's original colonial character. The Krohgs contacted Ron when they became stumped about what to do with the contemporary built-in bookcase that was installed by a prior owner. Ron stopped by to help them add some 18th century charm to a 20th century addition that was definitely short on history.

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1. Design:

• Although the early colonial settlers did not have bookcases Ron still thought they could add some details to the piece to tie in with the room a little better. The Krohgs especially disliked the metal strips that were used to hold the adjustable shelving in place.

• First, the shelves should look a bit thicker. In the back, Ron suggested putting up bead board, and along the top, he suggested a very simple crown molding.

• On the end of the shelf, Ron suggested they duplicate the panel look of a nearby door by adding flat strips of wood.

• Olaf wasted no time launching into step one… getting rid of the metal shelving tracks that he hated so much.

• The next step was to remove the old molding and make way for the new crown molding they would make and install later. Olaf ran a utility knife along the edge to cut through the paint, which not only made the old molding easier to remove, but also reduced the chance of chipping the ceiling paint.

• They used pry bars to pull away and remove the original piece of molding.

• They chose to remove the front rounded edge on the countertop, so Olaf cut through it with a small, portable circular saw.

• The blade couldn't quite cut all the way to the wall, so Ron completed the cut with his Japanese handsaw.

3. Bead board

• The bead board came in smaller pieces than what they needed so it had to be installed it in two sections.

• They laid down the first section, which had already been cut to length, and applied wood glue to the back.

• They tucked the top in first to get behind the base frame and then they pressed the board into place.

• They glued the second panel in place, aligned with the first.

• They used a portable pin nailer with its own on board compressor to tack the bead board in place while the glue dried.

4. End panels

• Ron clamped together two pieces of half-inch plywood. Each piece would be used to form the inside end panels, which would cover up the ends where the old tracks were. They drilled a series of holes in these new end panels, where they would later install wooden pegs to be used for shelf supports.

• Ron clamped the two panels together to ensure that the holes were lined up perfectly so when they inserted the shelf support pins the shelves would be level. A portable drill press was used to ensure that the holes were drilled straight up and down.