How to Cut and Install Laminate Countertops

In Orlando, Florida, Ron visits Barbara and Nathan McMahan, who have asked him to help them replace their drab and outdated kitchen countertop with a laminate countertop that's much more in keeping with their adventurous taste.

Click Here For a list of what you will need in order to complete this project.

It is possible to put new laminate right over the existing laminate surface, but it's generally not recommended. It is better to remove the old countertops, create new blanks using the old countertops as templates, and then put the new laminate on top of the new blanks.

1. Remove old countertops
The backsplashes need to be removed first. Begin by cutting through the caulk around the backsplash to avoid damaging the wall paint when you pry it away.

Gently drive putty knives behind the backsplash to protect the wall from the pry bars that you will use to pull the backsplash away from the wall.

Remove the screws that hold the countertop in place from underneath. Preserve the old countertops as you remove them because they will be used as templates to create the new blanks.

2. Create new blanks
The material that will be used to make the substrate for the new countertops is called MDF, medium density fiberboard, and the laminate will be glued right on top of this surface.

Trace around the old countertop sections to create new blanks exactly the same size as the old ones.

Lay 2 x 4's under the sheet of MDF to provide a solid base for the cut and to also prevent either piece from falling away when you complete the cut. Using a straight edge as a guide, cut out the first blank with a circular saw. It is okay cut through the 2 x 4's slightly.

Any smaller finishing cuts are done with a jigsaw.

The larger, L-shaped countertop section can be made in two sections that will be joined together later.

After cutting out both sections, lay them bottom-side up, brush glue on the adjoining edges and then clamp them together until the glue dries.

Add an additional strip along each outside edge of the blank spanning across the joint where the two sections are joined together. This will act as a cleat and provide additional strength to the joint. It will also double the thickness of the edge. The countertop edge will look much better with an edge that is an inch and a half thick instead of three-quarters of an inch.

Next, apply glue to the face of the cleat, press it into place, and then drive in the screws. Repeat the process on a second cleat along the opposite edge.

Attach a third cleat directly over the joint where the two sections meet. Continue building up the blanks by installing cleats along each edge.

3. Cut laminate
Laminate sheets come in a range of different sizes from 3' x 6 ' to 5' x 12'. Select the size that you can get the most efficient use of.

Begin by measuring the dimensions of each blank. Add an extra inch to each measurement so that the laminate will overhang the blank on all sides. You will trim off the excess laminate after it has been permanently attached.

Transfer the measurements to the laminate and then cut it to size with a carbide-tipped scoring tool. Run the tool over the surface several times to make a deep score and then break the laminate.

Repeat this process until all of the laminate is cut to size.

4. Glue laminate
The laminate is first attached to the sides or edges of the blanks.

Apply two coats of contact adhesive to the edges of the MDF. The second coat is necessary because the fiberboard is very porous. Only one coat is needed on the laminate.

After the contact cement is applied to two mating surfaces, allow it to dry before joining the two sheets together. The adhesive is dry when it goes from a milky color to clear and does not feel sticky. When the two dry surfaces of contact cement join together, they bond instantly and cannot be readjusted.

Because the laminate sheets are cut oversized, positioning is not that critical as long as there is an overhang on all edges, which will be trimmed off later.

Use a J-roller to apply pressure to the laminate to firmly bond the surfaces together.

Flat strips of laminate are attached on those sides of the countertop that will be next to the appliances. A more decorative treatment will be used for the fronts and exposed ends of the countertops.

5. Trim excess laminate
A laminate trimmer is similar to a small router. The bit has a ball bearing that rolls along the surface while the cutter cuts the edge off.

Run the trimmer along the sides in a clockwise motion. It is important to keep the base perfectly flat as it moves along the surface.

After completing the trim work on the sides of the countertops, move on to the top. Apply the contact adhesive with rollers on large surfaces and always apply a second coat to the MDF.

Position wood strips on top of the MDF and overhanging the surface. Since the strips won't stick to either surface they will safely keep the glued sections apart until the laminate is in the correct position. Carefully remove the strips allowing the laminate to come into contact with the MDF.

Once the surface is rolled out, trim off the overhang with the laminate trimmer.

Use a file to smooth those edges of the laminate that will be installed alongside the appliances.

6. Decorative edges
A decorative edging will be attached where the sides of the countertop are exposed.

There is a tongue on the inside so you have to cut a dado or a slot on the edge of the blank to receive it.

Use a router fitted out with a dado bit and slide it along the edge of the countertop.

As you cut each edging piece to length, put a 45-degree miter on the end to create clean corner joints.

Next, brush glue on the inside of the dado, on the edge of the countertop and on the back of the decorative trim and then just push it into the slot. Use a rubber mallet to gently pound the tongue into the dado while carefully aligning the corners.

7. Countertop installation
The new countertops are attached using the same brackets that held the old countertops in place. The screw is attached up through the bracket and into the bottom of the shelf.

To install the back splashes, run a bead of construction adhesive across the back of each one and then press them into place.

Run a bead of white silicone between the backsplash and tile to seal the gap between them.

Follow with a bead of clear silicone between the backsplash and the countertop.

Dip a finger in rubbing alcohol to smooth out the silicone in a process called tooling the bead.