How to Build an Outdoor Shower Enclosure, Continued

• To make the job go quickly, they tacked all the boards up temporarily with a pneumatic nail gun. This was the best way to check for spacing and fit before permanently attaching the boards.

• Once all of the inside and outside boards were in place, they drilled two pilot holes where each 1 x 6 attaches to each crossbar, then permanently secured the shower walls with over 100 rust resistant deck screws! Power drills were particularly handy for this task!

6. Build door:

• The frame for the door was made out of 2 X 4's held together with a half lap joint. The advantage of this type of joint is that it is very strong, attractive, and it is easier to assemble the frame while keeping everything perfectly square.

• To make this type of joint, they set the sliding compound miter saw to cut only halfway through the board. Then, they kept slicing, an eighth of an inch at a time until they had created a clean cutout.

• The shower door was designed to look just like the walls, with alternating 1 X 6 slats. The doorframe was assembled using glue then screws to connect the joints. A single crossbar was attached, once again using metal brackets.

• They attached the 1 X 6 facing boards the same way they did for the walls. Then they attached heavy-duty strap hinges.

7. Door stop:

• Before hanging the door, they added a 1" X 2" pressure treated pine doorstop, which would prevent the door from swinging inward. This was attached to the post with 1 ½" rust resistant deck screws.
• When installing the door, Ron set it up on a temporary block at the appropriate height to help support the weight while the hinges were attached.