The Y assembly would allow the sink drain to join the existing drain line.
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Next, using what some plumbers call mission clamps, Ron slid the metal band in place and then lubricated the pipe with dishwashing detergent. He then slipped the rubber sleeve over the assembly. Dishwashing detergent is an effective lubricant that will not deteriorate the rubber.
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| Once the Y assembly was in place, Ron pulled the rubber sleeves over the joints, slipped on the clamps, and tightened them up. The perforated copper hanging strap supported the drain, taking any strain off the coupling.
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| Back upstairs in the kitchen, Ron drilled the holes for the water supply lines using a long shaft spade bit.
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| Then, to create the drain holes, he used a two-inch hole saw with a shaft extension, making sure to keep the drill bit as vertical as possible.
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| His next step was to put in the run of pipe that would connect the drain and the water supply lines to the sink. To make sure that each piece of the pipe is cut to the proper length, he recommends a "dry fit" before cementing the sections together.
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| Before disassembling the pieces after the dry fit, Ron created reference marks on the pipes so that he could put each piece back together in the same position.
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| Ron glued the assembly together, attaching one end to the riser that goes into the kitchen cabinet and the other to the Y in the drain. Finally he checked to make sure there was a gradual downward slope to the drain. Now he was ready to fit the copper pipe together.
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| Ron selected pre-soldered fittings, which have the solder already inside so that all he needed to do was heat the fitting causing the solder to liquefy and flow out of the joint. |
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| Ron made the connections in the basement with all the pipes leading up into the cabinet. He first needed to add some fittings under the cabinet and then he would finally be able to start on the sink.
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| First, Ron installed what's called a sanitary T, which the sink drain would later be attached to. He then installed a vent above the T and a trim escutcheon at the bottom. |
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| He cut off the water lines, installed escutcheons on these, slipped on the shutoff valves, and tightened the compression fittings with a wrench.
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| Ron recommends attaching everything possible to the sink before dropping it into the opening. He molded a piece of plumber's putty, which is a mixture of oil and minerals like limestone and clay, and used it to seal the sink basket to the sink itself. |
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| On the underside of the sink, he placed a rubber seal, an anti-friction fiber washer, and a lock nut. He then employed a basin nut-wrench, designed specifically to secure the basket snugly in place.
Finally, he removed the excess plumber's putty.
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| To install the new faucet, Ron dropped the water lines through the hole, flipped the sink over, slipped on a mounting plate, screwed on a nut, and then tightened it up using the plastic socket that came with the faucet set.
He passed the sprayer hose through the center of the faucet and connected it on the underside.
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| Before dropping the whole assembly into place, Ron applied a bead of silicone sealant around the edge of the sink opening.
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