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Sliding Glass Door Replacement

Learn how to remove and replace a sliding patio door; includes details on flashing and caulking as well as tips, materials, and tool lists.
  • The level was perfect so they placed a series of shims along the length of the threshold, about every 12 inches, to support the second board all the way across.
3-13a level was perfect
   
  • They gave the threshold one last check for level before nailing the 2 X 6 into place and sawing off the protruding ends.
3-13a saw off ends
   

3. Flashing:

  • To protect the new framing from water damage, they covered it with thin sheet metal called flashing. First they covered the face of the new framing…
3-13a flashing
   
  • …then folded the flashing over the top.
3-13a fold flashing
   
  • Ron secured the flashing with galvanized roofing nails.
3-13a secure flashing with nails
   

4. Adjustments:

  • Replacement doors are usually slightly smaller than the originals, so they needed to make a few adjustments. They began with a spacer at the top of the frame to make the upper opening lower.
3-13a spacer
   
  • The new door was about three-quarters of an inch narrower than the old one so they added another spacer to the inside of the opening to make it slightly narrower.
3-13a spacer
   

5. Flange and caulking:

  • On the new door, Ron showed the Harmans what is called the nailing flange. When bent out, it would be used to attach the door to the house and would allow for minor size discrepancies if they existed. The flange also would provide a weather seal between the doorframe and the framing of the house.

 

3-13a weather seal
   
  • They bent out the flange along the sides and top of the doorframe, and then leaned the door assembly up against the deck railing to apply the caulking.
3-13a bent flange
   
  • Bill put a 3/8ths inch bead of caulk down the center of the flange.
3-13a caulk
   
  • Barbara put a 3/8ths-inch bead of caulk in a rectangular shape about an inch from the outside edge all the way around the entire length and width of the threshold. The caulk provided a weather tight seal between the flange and the framing as well as the sill and the threshold.
3-13a caulk
   
  • They very slowly and carefully tipped the door up into position trying to be certain that it was centered.
3-13a
   
  • Ron hammered a single nail through the flange to hold the doorframe in place.
3-13a nail in place
   
  • He then used a level to make sure the sides were perfectly vertical or plumb.
3-13a use level
   
  • They hammered in the remaining nails…
3-13a hammer in remaining nails
   
  • …and replaced the door casings.
3-13a replace door casings
   
  • With the three panes of glass in the new door, the brisk fall air that rolled in off the lake was barricaded from coming inside.
3-13a door
   

RESULTS:
Replacing the door was fairly time consuming, especially because of the dry rot repair that needed to be done. But after the installation was completed, there was a dramatic improvement both in beauty and in protection from the weather. The Harmans were very satisfied with the result and toasted Ron for all his help and encouragement.

3-13a all done!
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