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How to Install Crown Molding

Learn how to install crown molding like a pro; includes details on foundation strips, glue block and cutting scarf joints.

This next HouseCall took Ron through downtown Santa Fe where he was on his way to meet Cindy Carabajal. Her family spent most of their time in the living room, often around an antique piano Cindy had owned since childhood. She asked Ron to help her dress up the room a bit. The lure of Santa Fe, combined with the chance to play this very special piano was more than Ron could resist.

Click Here For a list of what you will need in order to complete this project.

2-21b Crown Molding
   

1. Molding style:

  • From the outside, the Carajabal home was designed in a typical Southwestern style, but in the inside there were a several traditional touches. Cindy wanted to expand upon this more traditional look. Ron thought they could achieve this by adding crown molding to the room. Since the ceilings in the room were quite high, Ron wanted to add something more substantial than standard crown molding.
2-21b crown
   
  • Ron's idea was to attach flat baseboard to both the wall and the ceiling and then install the crown molding in-between the two.

 

2-21b animation
   
  • He created a simple mock up to show how much more substantial the molding would look. Cindy loved it, so they got to work.
2-21b crown mock up
   

2. Stud and joist locations:

  • They needed to attach the molding to the wall studs and ceiling joists wherever they could, so they used an electronic stud finder to locate and mark each stud and joist.
2-21a stud finder
   

3. Cut wood:

  • They moved out to the garage and Cindy had her first experience using a sliding compound miter saw. The first cuts were for the baseboards that would be applied to the ceiling. The ends of the boards were cut at 45-degree angles in order to meet cleanly in the corners of the room.
2-21b animation
   
  • With the blade rotated to 45 degrees, Cindy made the miter cuts for each corner.
2-21b Cindy with saw
   
  • They used a piece of masking tape to mark each place they had located a wall stud and ceiling joist.
2-21b mark with tape
   

4. Attach baseboard molding:

  • The first piece of molding that they put up went on the ceiling. Because the joists ran in the same direction, they could only attach these to the edge of one joist.
2-21b Ron pointing
   
  • They had to rely on construction adhesive to hold the first piece in place.
2-21b glue
   
  • They pressed the molding into the wall and up onto the ceiling and then Ron used an air nailer to drive nails into the edge of the joist.
2-21b air nailer
   
  • There were a few areas where there were no studs or joists. In these locations, Ron attached two nails at opposing angles. This would provide what Ron referred to as a mechanical hold. This type of hold is not particularly strong, but it was enough to hold the molding in position until the construction adhesive dried.
2-21b nail at angle
   
  • Cindy lined up the miter cut on the second piece while Ron secured it in place by driving two nails into each joist.
2-21b miter cut lined up
   

5. Scarf joints:

  • Miter cuts were used for the corners, but a different type of joint was needed where the two sections of baseboard met in the middle of the ceiling or wall. Rather than joining two pieces end to end forming a butt joint, Ron suggested they put a 45-degree bevel on each end forming what is known as a scarf joint. This type of joint does a much better job of effectively hiding the seams.
2-21b scarf joint
   
  • Unlike the miter cut where the saw blade was rotated to a 45-degree angle, the scarf joint required the blade to be tilted to 45 degrees.
2-21b miter cut
   
  • After they had cut the two bevelled ends, the two pieces simply slipped into place. Nails were driven through both boards locking them together.
2-21b bevelled edges

 

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