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How to Build a Trash Enclosure

Learn how to build and install an enclosure for your trash cans; includes plans and instructions along with tips, materials, and tools lists.

The trash situation at Ron's house was completely out of control so he decided to build an enclosure to keep his family's garbage out of site and out of reach of the country critters. Ron created an outside trash compartment that's not only convenient and good looking but also tamper proof.

Click Here For a list of what you will need in order to complete this project.

Ron with trash
   

The 3-dimensional drawings for this project were made with SketchUp design software.

SketchUp logo

   

1. Design
The enclosure will sit on a base frame made out of 2 x 4 pressure treated lumber. Decking is added on top of that, then side frames and a back frame. A front rail completes the structural design.

Please click here to download the full-size, 3-D drawings for the trash enclosure project.
To view these drawings, please download the free SketchUp Viewer.

Design
   

Side walls, or skins, are added to the structure along with a back, a front, doors, and finally, the lid.

Design II
   

2. Base frame
Since the base frame will come in contact with the ground, it should be built from pressure treated lumber. Begin by cutting all of the pieces necessary for the base and then lay them out for a test fit before permanently attaching the pieces together.

Drill clearance or shank holes in each plank before attaching them. The holes will allow the screws to pass through the first piece of wood more easily.

A hammer drill works well for driving in long screws. Once the outer frame is complete, fit the two cross braces across the center.

Hammer drill
   

3. Decking
Once the base frame is assembled, the next step is to add decking. The decking is cut to length from 5/4 x 6 pressure treated planks. Align the first plank so that it is flush on both ends and along the side of the base frame. It is not necessary to drill shank holes for the decking because the screw has a much shorter distance and the wood is relatively soft.

To allow for drainage, put a 1/8-inch gap between each board. A 16-penny nail makes a perfect spacer.

The final plank will need to be trimmed to fit. Measure the width of the last plank allowing for the 1/8-inch gap and then rip the final board on a table saw.

Decking
   

4. Framing
First, cut the side and back framing pieces out of 2 x 2 lumber and then attach the ends together with screws. Since the structure will be outside, it is a good idea to also add polyurethane glue, which is excellent for outside projects, to secure the attachment.

 

Adhesive for frames
   

When this glue dries, it expands, and the excess will push out between the joints. Use a sharp knife to cut away the excess.

To attach the frames to the base, it is easier to clamp them in place first, and then secure them with rust resistant screws.

Remove excess
   

Attach the back frame first to the deck, and then to the side frames.


Attach to decking
   

The front section of the structure will need a brace along the top edge to secure the two corners together.

 

Front brace
   

5. Paneling
With the frame completed, it is time to enclose the structure by attaching paneling to the outside. Put up 1 X 6 V-joint tongue and groove paneling temporarily making sure that the bottom edge is aligned. Draw a pencil line along the inside of the paneling above the top edge of the side frame. Take the panels down and then trim each one to length by cutting on the pencil line.

Since the structure may expand and contract over time, it is a good idea to provide an extra insurance by applying a bead of construction adhesive along the top and down the side of the frame.

Adhesive for siding
   
Attach the first board with adhesive and a nail gun, and then move around the outside of the frame attaching siding to the sides and back of the structure. Attach siding
   

6. Doors and lid
The same tongue and groove paneling is also used to build the lid and the doors. Slip the boards together and then attach two 1 X 3 battens along the back with screws to hold the boards securely in place.

 

Battens
   

In addition to the battens, attach diagonal braces to the doors to keep them from sagging.

 

Cross brace
   

7. Paint
Once everything is assembled, it is time for a coat of primer and paint.

8. Ground preparation
First, dig out about four inches of soil from the area where the trash enclosure will sit and then compact the surface with a tamper.

Next, lay landscape fabric on the ground. This will prevent weeds from growing but still allow for drainage. Rake out several inches of gravel on top of the cloth.


Ron with tamper
   

9. Final touches
Finally, attach the hardware, which includes hinges, handles and locks.

The new enclosure is easy to use, blends in with the house, and nearly guarantees that those critters won't cause any more trouble.

Trash enclosure
 
 

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