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| A concrete countertop can bring a lot of character to an otherwise bland room.
Jeff Kuryluk of Concrete Encounter designs and creates these countertops from scratch. |
The first step is construction of a template that marks the dimensions of the existing countertop. These wooden strips are fixed in place with hot-melt glue. |
In the shop, this template is used to cut out the pieces of a frame that will hold the concrete. This frame is built using melamine, which is plywood with a stick-resistant, vinyl coating. |
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| The pieces of the melamine frame are nailed together around the wooden template for the existing countertop. |
Next, a sink form measured to the dimensions of the new sink is traced onto a sheet of one-and-a-half-inch thick rigid foam insulation. |
This outline is cut out using a bandsaw or jigsaw. |
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| Forms for the faucet assembly are punched out of the foam using a piece of 1.5" drain pipe. |
The edges of all of the form pieces are then covered with 1.5" clear packing tape. This will prevent pieces of the cut foam from sticking to the concrete. |
Finally, the forms are attached to the mold base with silicone to create what will eventually be the sink opening and holes for the faucets and spout. |
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| The seams in the mold are sealed with silicone, to give the countertop edges a smooth, rounded shape. |
After application of a spray-on tooling liquid called Caulk-Mate, tooling the corners leaves a perfectly clean, uniform bead. |
The mold is finished and ready for concrete. |
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| Sand and dry concrete are combined in a concrete mixer with an oxide pigment and a special additive containing plasticizers to strengthen the countertop. |
When the dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed, it's time to add the water. Mixing time is critical: too much or too little can affect the strength, appearance and pliability of the concrete. |
Next, the mixture is poured into the form, filling it about two thirds full. |
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