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With all of the window panes and sashes removed from the frame to make it easier to handle, the new frame is lifted into place. |
With the frame held in position, screws temporarily fasten the frame to the rough opening. |
Outside, support cable clamps attached to the solid wood header above the window opening hold the window steady while it is adjusted for level. One clamp on either side of the window hold it in place.
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| With the frame attached and level, the center fixed window can be set in position and secured in place. |
The double-hung sashes just snap into the frame and tilt up. |
Shims are inserted into the space between the top of the frame and the rough opening. Once the window is checked for level, screws are driven through the frame, through the shim and into the framing of the rough opening to fix the window permanently in place. |
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| With the structural work complete, it's time to frame the roof of the window bay. |
A roof cap is framed, hoisted into placeand secured to the house and the window bay. |
The interior space is filled with fiberglass insulation and plywood decking is nailed to the rafters. |
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| Next, wood trim is applied to the roof perimeter. |
A metal drip cap is nailed along the edge, above the trim. |
Roofing paper (also called roofing felt) is then laid over the plywood sheathing and stapled in place.
Notice how the paper extends past the edge of the roof and up onto the wall by a couple of inches. |
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| Rubber-backed metal tape is applied along the edge of the roofing felt, to seal it against the wall. |
The first, or starter, row of shingles is attached upside down, with a second layer placed on top, right side up.Then each subsequent row of shingles overlaps the one below it. |
As additional protection against leaks where the roof cap meets the wall, short sections of metal flashing called step flashing, are installed. |
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