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| After you solder or press the new fittings, it's time to install flexible water lines to isolate any pump vibration.
Using two wrenches keeps the adjacent pipe and joints from being twisted. |
Next, additional plastic anchors are tapped in place and these pump mounting clamps are attached to the wall.
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Once the pump itself is in position, the clamps will snap together. |
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| The pump isn't the only part of the system. There's also a small pressure tank, which functions like a shock absorber. This prevents what's known as the "water hammer" effect. |
The pressure sensor is installed between the tank and the main water line. It detects any drop in water pressure, which immediately signals the pump to start. |
And here is the brain of the system, the controller. It monitors water pressure, tells the pump when to start and stop, and how fast to run. Its microprocessor also detects malfunctions and displays error codes if there's a problem. |
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| With the power on and everything ready to go, program the controller and run a startup diagnostic test, using a hand-held remote unit. |
If you want some proof as to the power of your new pressure, it's easy to do an experiment. Before firing up the booster pump, see how long it takes to fill up a bucket from any given faucet. |
Then set the booster to your desired pressure, and time the same fill-up. In this case, at 70 lbs. of pressure instead of the original 40 lbs., filling up a 5-gallon bucket took roughly half the time! |
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| Our pump is set on 70 lbs., which is nearly twice the pressure we had before. If you wish, you can adjust the pressure to as high as 100 for heavy-duty projects like washing a deck or house exterior. |
You have now achieved what the water company couldn't: you've increased your home's water pressure!
Best of all, you've done it with a system that's compact, takes up virtually no floor space, is quiet, and is adjustable. |
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