Step-by-step demonstration of how to set up a miter saw to cut accurate compound angles for crown molding
Learn how to construct and wallpaper decorative molding frames.
An Innovative Way to Keep a Fun Visual Record of a Child's Growth
by Ron Hazelton on July 26, 2014 in News
by Ron Hazelton on June 14, 2014 in News
Viewing Project in Walls > Hanging & Mounting
I will try this, thanks!
Great idea. I have a problem with the small set screws that hold the towel bar in place. I would love to find the old fashion wooden towel, toilet roll holders.
Good information, but why do you show only the illustration of the one NOT to use?
I installed a new paper holder using the anchors shown in the video. The type I installed has the spring loaded tube to hold the roll. From the pressure, the anchor comes loose just like the plastic anchors. Do you have any other ideas?
As a Time Warner tech I use the threaded anchors all the time. They truly hold better than the plastic ones.
Depending on the wall thickness and space in back I use moly anchors that expand and have a larger holding surface, BTW that's not "lathe" which is a metal working tool but a wooden lath my friend.
They don't Bro.
Great timing. I just noticed my towel rack was pulling loose.
Two by four? That would make the mirror stick out too far from the wall Bro. I do agree the hanging device should be into the studs fer sure.
I hope you never have to take out the glued in plugs Bro!
Yeah, me too Bro.
Well I think you answered your own question Bro.
Ha Ha Goot one Rick! I was grossed out too.
I have repaired bath fixtures that had threaded in anchors. I like the plastic toggles. They come with the proper drill bit and hold alot of weight. I hang pictures with them as well. I don`t worry about them falling out. Thanks for all of your tips.
Great stuff as usual Ron.......keep'm coming and thanks!
Another great tip Ron......But Please....no more shots of you sitting on the throne.....too freaky..
Best method would be to push it into the wall slightly and then putty over, sand, and paint. That way you don't need to fill in a large hole.
Emily LymanRon Hazelton Team
There are special wall anchors for plaster walls available at most home improvement stores. These will work best for soft walls.
I used to use this type, but have found the plastic toggler the best for most situations. Here is a video of them: http://youtu.be/PV3Sb77VLy4
Ron, when the plastic anchor is loose, should it be pulled out or punched in to fall behind thee wallboard? Punching it in will enlarge the entire hole to the size of the anchor's head flange.
Hey Ron!, I've always thought of myself as very knowledgeable, but sometimes one doesn't think of all the alternatives. I'll try those next time.
I've usually had good results with crew anchors, but when used to anchor a double towell rack, in our bathroom, they would not hold up to the weight and pulling of the towells. So I mounted a board on the wall and attached the towell rack to it.
I've been reading all the complaints about the adds on Ron's videos, but you know what ... unlike where you PAY for premium channels, this is FREE. And Ron gets paid for inserting them here. Then again, if they upset you THAT much, easy, just cancel your subscription here, now wasn't THAT nice of me? And it didn't cost you a dime to read.
I live in a trailer, no plaster or drywall, and I found from experience that the plastic molly's will not work on walls that are made of 2" X 2" studs and paneling The shelf I placed over my big TV pulled away from the wall one night and dropped everything on the floor. With the hole that resulted I went to the hardware store and asked and I was shown a metal butterfly type hanger that is inserted into the hole, then the screw is tightened, then the screw can be removed and put through the holder for the shelf. In MY case, this was the best idea I had ever seen. And they were only about $1.50 each, and came in several sizes.
What about anchors in plaster walls?
I have used the threaded anchors for years and prefer them in dry wall to almost any other anchor. I have used the metal and plastic threaded anchors successfully.
You are so right! You are always right!. That's exactly what I did when the plastic anchor pulled out, And years later it's still holding tight.
The screw-in anchors were relativly cheap when they first came out, and then went up in price shortly after; even the ones made in China. They are still the best.PS; The owners selected a terrible spot to put the toilet paper, with the knees being so close to bump it off. It seems, that where to hang the paper, is always the last thought when designing a bathroom.
The screw in type do not work in the wet plaster walls in mi casa. I have to use the plastic plugs. I hate drywall.
....speaking of screws, we're getting screwed..., why do we now have to wait through advertisements here too ? HELL ! , We go to the movies ,pay $10.00 and have to watch ADS ??? WHY ? We pay for cable TV (premium channels) and they sneak'em in there too! You get your electric bill in the mail and that's stuffed with ADS ,what the HELL.?1? Well Ron, thanks for adding to the ADS.
Ron, on top of all the great tips, you seem like a great guy. I wish that I had an Issue just to get you out here so that I could shake your hand and work beside you.
we made the switch last year when we moved into our newly built home and threaded is the way to go for us!
I also apply a dab of liquid nail to the treads of the anchor, just a added precaution...
plastic togglers work the best
i'm partial to the screw in anchors and they come in many sizes.
I have long used the screw in type. They are the clear winner in drywall.
The screw in style is what I have used for a long time :)
Now I know the correct anchor to use with draywall since the other applications I have used failed. Thanks Ron I really enjoy your show on TV and have learned a lot from watching it
Something that large and heavy needs to be anchored to the studs, not just drywall. One technique I like, is cutting a two by four at a forty five degree angle lengthwise. Use a level to mount one piece on the wall, anchored to the studs, then mount the matching piece on the mirror back. If you use the right pieces in the right place, you can then hang it on the wall, it's automatically level, and yet, still removable. I often hang cabinets the same way. The bottom piece, the one on the wall should point out, the one on the mirror in, then when you mate them back up, gravity makes sure it won't go anywhere, like a wedge system.
Real plaster or blueboard with a plaster coating? If you have real plaster walls, with the lathe backing, you might get lucky and hit the lathe with just a drywall screw if it's long enough, but you might be unlucky and miss the lathe all together. If it's blueboard with a plaster coating, any drywall anchor will work, choose the best type for the weight. One caveat, careful making the hole, you might crack the plaster (either type) and then have a real mess on your hands.
unless you're very lucky or have a power screwdriver where you can set the torque to a very low level, you're correct about the power tools, they tend to over tighten and pull the anchor out.
I find the screw in type don't often have enough holding power either. For real strength, I like the folding toggle bold type, sometimes the plastic variety will do, but usually I prefer the metal, spring loaded kind. There is a drawback to these too, you have to mount the bracket or whatever before inserting the toggle in the wall, or els when you remove the bolt to instal it, the back falls down. Somebody needs to make a combination of the two types. A plastic top on it to keep the thing in the wall when the bolt is removed would be nice. I have made my own mounting devices, but they're not easy to use.
Rayfix Ultimate Gold Wall Anchors hold 60 pounds and leave only a half inch flat cut and dimple depression. Great for replacing wallboard screw installations.
I usually fix these things when I'm using the toilet.....
My father hung our kitchen cabinets with molly bolts and those cabinets never loosened from the mid 50s when he did them to 1980 when we sold the house.
i always use the Z screws, hands down the best method ... short of the butterfly type( better for more weight) , all depends on the weight of what your hangingTIP: NO power tools !!!
I don't like these. If you over-tighten these just slightly, they become loose and won't hold well and then you have a big hole to deal with. The act of screwing them into the drywall board actually weakens the connection area. I prefer the wing style where they spread out on the backside of the wall board as you tighten the screw. The trick is to pre-drill a proper sized hole so that they are tight to put in, but not so tight that you chance damaging the hole, even slightly.