Update your bathroom with ceramic tiles. After removing the toilet, bathroom floor trim, and the old vinyl and adhesive, use a cardboard template and chalk lines to position a central design and grid for the field tile. Learn to mix and apply thin-set mortar, cut tiles to fit around walls and drains, and to grout and clean the finished floor.
Remove the toilet and baseboard shoe molding. Pull up the vinyl flooring from the bathroom floor and scrape up adhesive residue.
Make a cardboard template sized to match the decorative ceramic tiles for the central design or "island" of special tile. Decide where the template looks best.
Mark the edges of the island template and field tile positions with chalk lines, spraying them with hair spray to preserve them while you work. Temporarily mark the edges of the center island with glued wood strips.
Mix thin set mortar in a five gallon bucket using an electric drill with a mixing paddle. Apply the mortar with a notched trowel tipped up at a 45-degree angle to produce uniform rows or ridges of mortar.
Set tiles into the mortar, press down firmly using a very slight twisting motion. Use tile spacers to keep the grout lines uniform and straight. Remove wood strips.
Follow the same process for setting whole field tiles, working from the island outward toward the walls. Leave the tiles that require special cuts until the next step.
Use a wet saw to cut the edge tiles. Follow the video steps that demonstrate how to cut these tiles to precisely the right size.
Use a template gauge to transfer intricate shapes like the door casing onto the tile. Make a cardboard template for the toilet drain. Make major cuts with the tile wet saw and cut tight corners and curves with tile nippers. Cement everything in place.
Mix grout. Force the grout into the joints with a rubber grout float, then tilt the float to a 45-degree angle and draw it across the tile from corner to corner to avoid scooping grout from the joints.
Let the grout dry until firm to the touch. Using a damp sponge and light to moderate pressure, smooth the joints and clean the remaining grout and haze from the face of the tile. Re-install the toilet and wall trim.
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Wow OK
I just want to say holy crap people don’t do what this Video tells you to do it skips a lot of steps and has you doing a lot of inefficient garbage First off your going to remove the toilet and then score along the top of the trim so that you don’t rip the paint away from the wall and then carefully remove the trim you can pull or clip the nails from the walls and trim. Second you take a sheet of backer lay it on the floor bunt it against the door casing slap a tile down on its back and use an undercut saw or like i use a multi tool or you could just measure it and guess but i like doing it that way and its never wrong for a tight but easy fit . Third you are replacing the wax ring when you put the toilet so use the new wax ring as a tool for a moment draw a line around that a half inch out and there you have your toilet hole makes it fast and easy then you don’t need a pair of scissors and compass to figure out the toilet hole . as far as using the shape finder to miter around the trim? WTH!!! it looks awful when amatures attempt it and can take several attempts and as a professional it looks ghetto and is a huge waste of time you can use a shape finder when you run into a tub with a lot of couture
other than that I don’t use one .
Thank You! Ron for showing us this video. It was most helpful. I have a contractor coming to do my bathroom tiles, and now I know what to watch out for with respect to materials to use. I thought a wire lath was to be used. But you did not do this. Many thanks, very good video. God Bless!
Pauline
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At the very last of the video, you mentioned that they should “wait a few days before sealing”. Is the “sealing ” just for the grout (?) and what kind of sealer and how is it applied ? The video was great !! Also could you email me the advice about the sealer ? We just had ceramic tile installed and nothing was said about sealing it. Thank you.