Installing an Electric Garage Door Opener Makes Exiting and Entering Your Garage Safer and Easier
Learn how to route casing to build and match Victorian doorway casing.
Read step-by-step instructions on how to install a storm door
by Ron Hazelton on October 28, 2014 in News
by Ron Hazelton on September 21, 2014 in News
Viewing Project in Doors > Interior Doors
Your link shows $27.00
What a great idea! I can't wait to do this for my parents, they have doors very similar to this and it makes the hallway look so outdated. Thanks so much!
I NEED TO DECORATE A POCKET DOOR ( HAVE 4) WANT A NATURAL WOOD LOOK. THEY ARE PLAIN PANELS DOORS NOW.
This is a great demonstration...my hall doors looks exactly the same and I want to paint and make them look like paneled doors. Question....what type of paint (do you need to use a primer first). Did you do any fill in with caulking or paint once the molding was in place.
Your video was exactly what I was looking for and really enjoyed the tips with using tape for placement of the molding along with how to make exact measurements of each piece. Thank you for sharing!
Actually, Home Depot / Lowes does not sell them already assembled, but door moulding kits can be ordered online.
great video ive got 4 doors down stairs im off to get some mouldings and get busy thanks again for the video
Can this be done on hollow core doors? My house was built in the mid-80s and doors are not solid
If you don't feel like going to all the work of making the panels yourself, check out wall and door moulding kits by Luxe Architectural :)
I disagree with your comments. I own a 1950's home with doors very similar to those pictured in the video. My doors are not standard size - the height is 79" even and the widths vary but are all non-standard. I could not buy a $20 door. The new composite doors also look cheap. This video shows a design that would look much nicer in an older colonial home like mine, and I am glad I found this option.
Sorry... correction. A new 6 panel door at home depot is only $19.00 not $20.00 as originally stated. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Mas...
Will look better, last longer, and you don't have to go through all this work and pay $25.00 for enough wood molding.
WHY Would you do this????
This is one of those projects that actually makes no sense. You can buy a new raised panel slab from Home Depot or Menards for the cost of the molding alone. This is not going to improve property value instead its going to scream "cheap modifications".
Seriously, go check, a nice new clean raised panel door slab can be had for around $20.00 at any big box home improvement store. I just don't understand why you would want to make something look like a raised panel door for the same amount of money and even more work then just buying the real thing.
Panels like these were popular in the early 1970s, especially on flat steel exterior doors; they fell out of favor when 6-panel doors stamped from steel, Masonite and fiberglass took over in the late '70s. I'm not a huge fan of the "picture frame" look, but one could cut moldings the shape of a thin baseboard to go around the outside of the "panel" area; the interior lengths could be routed on both sides, or made from 2 half-cut sections of baseboard. This would produce an authentic stile & rail look and could even be finished off with routed-edge raised panels, if that's the desired effect. The only downside is the thicker profile of the door edge, which might require shimming of the casing. Also, the latch hardware would have to be able to handle the extra thickness. A nice compromise would be to use the picture frame moldings, then thicken the stile & rail area with some thin, smooth plywood. This would give the look of those 19th century (possibly hand-made) stile & rail doors that used square cut boards with protruding moldings that held the panels in place. If the plywood were thin enough (1/8" or so), it might look OK with the existing casing and fit under the existing knob assembly.
In this case, there were not any noticeable gaps that needed to be filled, but if needed, paintable caulk is an option. The nail holes were filled with wood filler.
I was wondering if the gaps were filled with paint able caulk and the nail holes filled with wood filler?
Should the back of the moulding be painted? The old expression, if you paint the front, you should also paint the back?
Thanks for this post. I want to update my front closet door and this will do nicely.
Great job. Makes a world of difference.. Have done doors like this and after pre-painting the moldings, painted streaks of darker shade along outer face and also painted highlight streaks along the top. Looked very rich.
Thanks Ron I Love your videos plus your TV show.
Goot luck on it Bro!
It is up to you. Personally, I would paint the other side but not install the mouldings.
I'm glad you like the project. What kind of paint did you use?
Home Depot of course. Just ask for assistance from a HD team member.
As long as you are gluing them you can place the nails 12" apart.
The doors were various widths as shown in the video of the hallway.
No, try putting a heavier coat on. Check Ron's painting tips.
Brilliant project - thanks for the great vid. I've got very similar 1960's stained doors and so far I've got 2 coats of primer, and 1 coat of paint/primer combo, and I'm STILL estimating 2 more coats of the combo! Did you run into a similar situation with the doors in the video?This is my new favorite DIY blog btw!
What was the width of the door in this video - 24", 28" 30" or 32" door? What are the diminsions of the top portion of the door molding and of the bottow portion. I'm aware of the 5" from the top & side of door. The video seem to indicate that 24" were the length of the horizonal 45 degree cuts...??? What is the name of the molding used in the video?
Was wondering what size thickness did you use on Laura's doors.
You can print the video transcripts just below the video window.
Emily LymanRon Hazelton Team
Where can I find the instructions to print out ? I don't want to have to keep running to the computer for the next steps.
I am planning to add molding to my cabinet doors. How far apart should the brads be inserted on the doors?