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by Ron Hazelton on August 18, 2015 in News
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Viewing Project in Floors > Wood
Ron, what about if you have to remove a larger wall section and the originally hardwood flooring was put in after the walls. The wall was running perpendicular to the flooring. So now you have a long section about 8 feet by 2 feet of missing hardwoods. I'm assuming you would have to pull out various strips so that you don't have a straight row of joints... How hard is this to do? I have a project where I want to move a non bearing wall about 30 inches back to make the room with hardwoods bigger.
Tinted/colored shellac is a film-forming finish. If you only use a stain then you still need to apply a protective clearcoat over it.
My posting was to illustrate tuat if you use shellac you can indeed add different colorant materials to it, you need not be conscripted to only using it as a clear finish.
What i wrote isn't found in any books, as far as i know. Maybe it is available in print literature or on youtube. But i'm writing from years of hands-on experience and with some knowledge of product compatability.
If you have more questions that you think i can answer for you, by all means.
Why tinted shellac instead of stain?
Thanks Ron for the video tips on replaceing some of the planks in the floor as I have to replace some in my house that have bubbled up because they were not acclamated to the temperature of the room before being layed down.
You can use a "transition piece" to bridge the two rooms. It can be wood, a rubber gasket, of a type of tile. You want it to slant from one surface to the other, like a very thin ramp.
Some woods are toxic, very toxic. The dust is poisonous, some of the woods have dust that's toxic to the touch (causes dermatology issues). In general, any wood dust/saw dust can give a person "industrial asthma". You never know your own threshold limit until you've reached it. I agree. Don't play with your lungs. Wear a tight fitting mask like the 3M 6000 or 7000 series safety masks, not those paper masks.
Coloring shellac is that hard to do. Yes, use dewaxed shellac. Zinsser Sealcoat is 2-lb dewaxed pale shellac. You can use dyes to colo0r shellac, powdered alcohol-soluble or liquid metalized dyes (Microton, Transtint, Sherwin-Williams, Mohawk Ultra Penetrating Stains, Orosol, etc.). You can use artists dry pigments to color shellac. You can use the color from aerosol colored lacquers (these mix right into shellac). You can use universal tinting colors (Mixol, Cal-Tints). You can even use small quantities of acrylic waterbase paint. There are plenty of options to experiment with.
This will save me a fortune!
Thanks for the input Bro.
Awesome video!You just saved me a lot of money.Thank you,Emmanuel
awesome job,exactly what I needed to know, thanks,, :)
Thanks for your great video. I had to show it to the morons here in China who said I had to replace the whole floor - 58sq meters of it. They now have no face!
I once saw a video on another site that if you need to replace parts of a wood floor in an open space with a matching piece... take a piece of the same wood from inside your closet.
Thanks. Very nice job.
I have that many tools (and way more) Really, all you need is a square, knife, chisel, hammer, and if you don't have a circular saw, a drill with bits and a hand saw. You can sometimes rent some of the power tools from big box home centers.
Good video and a couple of additional tips:
- Don't use the foam brush for the shellac. The solvents it it can disintegrate the foam.
- Use some of your cut-off pieces to run trials on color matching and finishing. After going through all the work to install and sand the wood, you don't want to be experimenting with trying to match finish on your final floor. Especially so if your wood is stained. You don't want to mess up on your final product.
Great Vid. Thank you.
I'm always helping old people with their homes, so I know I'll use this in the near future. Now I know how to do it, thanks to you Ron!
It could have been from cedar dust, and a poor diet.
A small hammer, wood chisel, cheap Skill saw, small nails, Elmer's glue, a $3 to $7 Japanese hand saw, 2 grades of sponge sandpaper, is all the tools you will need.
who has that many tools. wish u could show us how to do this with minimal tools.
i know someone's husband who died from not using a mask while sanding wood. bad bad. u should wear a mask.
Looks like you could have put the last piece in first and saved a cut on the grove and would have been able to nail that one in at the tongue. Perhaps glue the grove to the tongue to save from nailing in from the top and having to fill in the nail holes, since the planks weren't very long. But, it looked good when you were done. Got to get me a miter saw one day.
I have always wondered how this is done- seemed complicated. It is no longer complicated but time consuming for sure. All worth it in the end. Thank you so much for sharing.
Great video, very easy for anyone with basic tools to follow.
I have been waiting a long time for this video. Thanks so much for sharing your tips and expertise as usual. Now I won't be afraid to tackle repairing the dog pee warped composite flooring. :)
Shellac comes in waxed (shellac is naturally waxed) and de-waxed. Waxed shellac is not for use under Polyurethane. Dewaxed seems to only come in clear.
Thank you for a great video. I am re-doing the floors in the old family home and have an area that needs replaced. Your time will help me a great deal as I attempt to make this repair.
Thanks Ron. A great tip for sure. Looking to buy a new house soon and you never know what you will find. This may come in very handy.
Very well explained, concise, good tips.Easy to understand for amateur like me.Thank you, very much.
Thanks Ron very nice project. Can u have a video that has hard wood floor was not even. I have combined a dinning room n living room to make one room and It's happened that both rooms are not level. One room is higher than other room about 1/2 inch to 1 inch, so what can I do to make the connection between the room? Thanks in advance
Awesome video, thank you!
Will store this well documented information for future use. Thanks Ron
this is what I needed to complete my temmite damaged floors
I love watching these vidieos and learning something new
GOOD JOB RON
Ron that was good,very helpful. Thank,s Ron
Great job! You are a natural teacher ... so patient with us! :) Your presentation was so helpful. Thank you!