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by Ron Hazelton on May 09, 2015 in News
by Ron Hazelton on May 06, 2015 in News
by Ron Hazelton on April 27, 2015 in News
Viewing Project in Walls > Wainscotting > Trimwork & Molding > Woodwork & Trim
Watching these videos has given me the confidence to tackle such a project in our dining room.
I'd go with the outside corner piece, but you could do either.
I like receiving Ron's helpful hints but the video's don't work
Follow you on you tube. Love your videos. Hope to see lots more.
I'm a retired General Contractor/Carpenter of 45 yrs. As far as yourfinished project goes, allow me to suggest that you first take intoconsideration, are you seeking to have your wainscoting to "blend-in"with the color of your floor boards or tiles? Or more as an "accent"for your wainscoting to "stand-out" than either the floor +/or upperwalls in the dinning room?
So should you choose to come as close to matching your wood or tile floor covering, you may want to choose a similar colored stainfor your wainscoting.
Then after applying the stain, you may want to allow the surfaceto dry overnight. Follow by applying at least two (2) coats ofvarnish, sanding the first or any additional applications (exceptfor the last coat) with a 120 or even a 150 grit sand paper.
Should you decide to stain & varnish, you may want to choose a Satin Finish type of varnish.
As an alternative, you may consider to either white-wash (or milk-wash your wainscoting. Doing so will offer an opaquewhiten surface, excentuating both the grain, knots andnatural "imperfections" in the wood of the wainscoting.
I would, once again, recommend that one or two coatsof a satin or semi-gloss varnish be applied.
Lastly, you can paint right over the wainscoting as well.But keep in mind, painting it not only will hind and natural imperfections in the wood, but the paint mayvery well fill-in the kerfs, along side the beads. In additionto the grain of the board too!
So if you choose painting over the other two choices, youmay consider diluting your latex paint with some water.
In closing, I personally would not leave the wainscoting in its natural state. The reason for that is because wainscotingtraditionally is applied to the lower portion of dinning roomwalls. And being the both food and drinks will be served inyour dinning room, your wouldn't want for your wainscotingto be exposed to any food +/or beverages, especially redwines, showing up on your wainscoting! The uncoated, natural wood -- would be, practically, impossible in attempt-ing to remove the stain(s) from your wainscoting. Unless youchoose running the risk of having to remove your chair rail & base-boards, along with either the individual boards or wainscoting panel sections. And to have to replace them with new pieces.
In addition, when food particles become inbedded into your wains-coting that hasn't been "sealed", you additionally run the risk for anarea for bacteria to grow! Which could lead to mold to grow andspread over time!
In closing, whatever coating you decide upon, just keep it simpleand white. Wainscoting simply doesn't look right when covered either the same or different color of the upper wall. The onlyexception should you choose a stain color such as your floor boards or tile.
Just keep in mind that someday, you may choose to change either or both the colors of your flooring and walls. By leavingyour wainscoting white with either a satin or semi-gloss finishedsurface, it will permit you to maintain it for years to come!
P.S. Should the ocassion arise to sell your property in the future,give your ceilings a coat of flat, ceiling white paint. And your wallsthroughout your house, a coat or a two over dark colored walls with either Off White, Egg Shell or a very light Almond or Biegecolored tone. Leaving your wainscoting alone, but cleaned.
By doing so, it offers both an overall clean environment, as wellas, an illusion that all your rooms are "larger" in size. Plus, itoffers the buyer to go into the house with an imaginary palletin deciding the colors of their own choices would be for each room. The purchaser and you may not necessarily be on thesame page when it comes to each of your own coloring schemes for the interior (and exterior) of the house...in orderto make it a home!
I hope the above offers any of you what it is that you're look-ing for.
Best of Luck with your project(s)!
I have MDF beadboards with 0.25 inch (6.35 mm) in thickness, but the width of groove on the top rail/cap is 0.315 inch (8 mm). The gap is about 0.065 inch (1.65 mm), which is not good to hold the beadboards to the wall. Any good idea? Thank you so much.
The main difference between wainscoting and raised panel wainscoting is the design. Raised panels feature geometric symmetrical designs or molding strips fixed to the flat panelling.
Traditionally, it is placed vertically with a decorative chair rail and molding along the top and bottom, framing the beadboard wainscoting along the wall.
what is the spacing of this installedwainscoting?
installed wainscoting, art &skylight make a more interesting design!
Diy wainscot with wallpapercan looks great!
diy wainscoting can Looks great with crown molding!
I have had the same problem with my 110 year old house. If I recall, Ron once demonstrated an angle finder a few years ago. "Starrett 7" Protractor". I use the protractor for outside corners and all my inside corners I make butt cuts at the corner and use a copping saw on the other piece (I think Ron has also demonstrated that technique).
I think that I would advise one to glue the long wall chair rail and baseboard scarf joints. I did notice that you did nail directly over those joints. Unless one cuts the long wall boards to fit directly over a wall stud "which would be a waist of expensive trim", the nails may split the molding as the boards expand and contract. After all, the scarf joint, is the very the thinnest part of the molding.
I thoroughly enjoy your videos. However it can take 7 minutes or more to watch a 3 minute video. Your videos seem to filter for a long period of time in comparison to other videos I view. Do you know why?Thank you,Pete
Thanks Ron, That did look easy...
Why didn't you use a stop jig on the saw itself to cut the lengths. Easier and better than measuring and marking each board with no chance of mixing up the original board.
Love the wainscoting. I'm going for it!
bob I ENJOY ALL THE VIDEOS. RON CAN U USE THE WAINSCOTTING THAT COMES IN SHEET . ALL YOURS TIPS AND INSTRUCTION ARE EASY TO UNDERSTANDS
I couldn't get to watch except with a commercial and no way to start the video I wanted to watch. I kept getting only the commercial. Very I was very disappointed.
I've been watching your videos for several months now, and I have yet to see one I didn't enjoy. I was a painter carpenter for nearly 40 yrs. and though that is the case I always learn a couple of tricks new to me. Thanks a great deal for the great instructions, and the little tips. Keep it coming!
WHAT TECHNIQUE WOULD YOU USE TO CUT A PIECE OF BASEBOARD OR CHAIR RAIL THAT IS MORE/LESS THAN 45 DEGREE'S; WHICH IS MOST OFTEN FOUND WHEN REMODELING AN OLDER HOME???
I was wondering the same thing as papa 11I guess it up to you what you want to do.
I think you are correct.
How will they finish the project? Paint, stain and varnish, or raw?