How to build and install a wall-mounted spice rack; includes step-by-step instructions along with tips.
Learn how to paint window sash and door frames; includes details on masking off glass and removing excess paint on glass.
by Ron Hazelton on November 22, 2014 in News
by Ron Hazelton on October 28, 2014 in News
Viewing Project in Kitchen > Cabinets > Painting & Decorating > Painting Techniques
How long do you have to wait for drying time between coats? And do you have sand between coats? I'm probably going to complete the task in the basement, what should the humidity level be? Please help,
I enjoyed your segment on cabinet refinishing. Could you do a segment on redoing formica cabinets?
THANK YOU I AM GOING TO RE STAIN MY CABINETS INSTEAD OF PAINTING LOOKS BEAUTIFUL....
A great video, but being completely ignorant of how to do almost anything useful, I need to ask questions. My cabinets are dark, and I don't want them any darker. I gather I should sand and stain? But wouldn't you have to sand heavily, taking off most of the color before applying the stain? I have arthritis in the hands and can't, but our maintenance man does odd jobs on the side. He wants to clean them with mineral oil and then spray polyurethane on them. Wouldn't this be too easy.A previous painter said he applied varnish, but it doesn't look like it. How can I tell? If there is varnish on the cabinets, would mineral oil remove it?Thank you guys.
I assume you do not do the inside of the cabinet or can you also stain and seal it while doing the outside? Any suggestions for cabinets that have been painted and that you want to stain?
What about 80's laminate cabinets? What would be the process refinishing this type of surface?
I have cabinets that are painted. What would the steps and products be to refinish them?
I was thinking metal cabinets ..
My cabinets were peeling & looked awful! I knew it would be very expensive to pay to have it done, & I really didn't want to tackle this job myself. However, when I found this video, I decided to try it. I didn't use the polyshade though because I had the color stain and satin finish polyurathane on hand. WOW! They came out beautiful! It was easier than I expected too! I am so happy with them! I really appreciate the video, it saved me! Thanks so much, Ron.
I went from a light oak stian to a dark color stain I have stained it twice with rag I am somewhat happy but it's not perfect on some spots if I do the 3rd coat with brush will it make a big difference on the little mess ups? It's very smooth and all, it's a little streaky and on some edges it's darker and rag marks. I need advice please!
I had some old and tired cabinets in my kitchen. After renovating two bathrooms, painting and adding trim to a Dining room and a Living room, I did not have the funds to replace the kitchen cabinets. I followed the instructions in this video, and the results were remarkable ! We are replacing the appliances and the counter top, and we should be good for a few more years.
Poly Shades was a challenge to work with, but after some practice I was able to put a standard repeatable process in place. The results were great !!
Thank you for this great video. I also just signed up for your newsletter..
I have staircase that is oak and pickle wood finish. I would like to get top and bottom stained dark color and paint spindles white. Can this be done? Would oak grain on the spindles show through the white paint? Would it look OK?
Thank you! I'm going to give a try!!!
1. Peach coat was too thick.2. You applied the second coat before the first was completely dry.
If you use a stainable putty despite the claim of being stainable it will always stain lighter.I suggest using fine saw dust with a tiny amount of stain (closest to your existing colour) mixed together then add a small dash of wood glue. Rub over the holes, wipe excess with damp cloth, leave to dry. Dab with your choice of finish to cover it.You can also use the pre-stained putty that comes in a tub (Minwax being popular and available at most box stores). Same application method of a small amount rubbed over the holes to fill them in. Immediately wipe with a damp cloth to remove the excess around the hole and in the wood grain and leave to dry. Dab with urethane.
Depending on the finish of the hardware depends on how you approach the cleaning method. I am sad to hear the 'professionals' you paid said taking doors off was too hard.. are you kidding me?You can soak the hinges in warm soapy water and use a tooth brush if they used a nice water based finish. If not you may have to go to something stronger like paint thinner or Goof Off (Not to be mistaken with Goof Gone). I would go slow with a stripper until you know what the finish is as you could end up removing the finish on the hinges.Work with a tooth brush and rinse then dry often to see your progress.
If the cabinets are real wood I would go for a full refinish. If they are another material (melamine) I suggest painting them. They are some great products out there that can be used over the stuck on finishes as long as the cabinets are in great shape to start with
Polyshades has a purpose and an ideal application method. This may help you decide if Polyshades is right for you. After using Polyshades for the first time to finish a custom cabinet and entertainment center I built, I was not all that happy with the finish. I read over the directions. I am very good with oil based paints and from everything I read, using alkyd painting techniques is certainly the best approach to brushing Polyshades. The finish was acceptable, but not as good as if I had stained and finished with polyurethane in separate steps. In that scenario, I would rate this product 2 stars. The most notable issues with a brushed application (and keep in mind I consider myself good with brush applications of finishes) is the inconsistency in the finished color. Fortunately, the inconsistency was so consistent; the piece appeared to be intentionally finished in that style (if that makes any sense). If you insist on using the product and applying with a brush, be sure to use a 100% natural China bristle of good quality, adequate bristles (not a chip brush), and keep it clean with mineral spirits as you use it. The Polyshades will thicken up in the bristles and affect your finish. This is the same caveat for alkyd painting. THERE IS A PURPOSE FOR POLYSHADES and more important, there is a better application method. First, if you're finishing bare wood (as I was in my first experience of Polyshades), pass on the Polyshades and go the traditional route. The only exception to this is if you are in a rush and have HVLP spray equipment. Now secondly, and most important to this review: If want to refinish a piece, that’s when Polyshades works very well. Polyshades can be a time saver, but sometimes it the most practical solution. Using kitchen cabinets as an example, suppose you wanted to darken your Golden Oak finished kitchen cabinets. This was the project I was willing to give Polyshades a second chance on. Why was I willing to give it a second chance? Well, after reading up on the product, I began to understand what it was exactly. And understanding what the product is as well as reading up on application methods, I was not only willing, but excited to tackle my kitchen cabinet refinish with this stuff. After my research, Polyshades ended up in a category of being a Toner finish. So what is a toner finish? Simply put unlike the clear finish product one would apply to a piece AFTER stain, dye, oil, etc., a toner is the clear finish product tinted with dye. Theoretically you could make your own Polyshades by adding tint to a can of polyurethane. The take-away from knowing this is understating the intent of a toner. That is, a toner is to be used and thought of as a top coat only. You are not staining / absorbing color into the piece. You are (for lack of better words) essentially “painting” a translucent, stain look-a-like, onto the top of the piece. In fact, when using toners for professional finishing, they’re usually applied AFTER a first coat of CLEAR. So, that is when I realized that REFINISHING with Polyshades may just be the best usage. And in fact, it works rather well. To avoid the inconsistent color banding of the top coat and after much reading up on toners, HVLP spraying is the only way to go. In refinishing pieces such as cabinets, prep work for applying Polyshades is exactly like the prep work required for applying a fresh coat of polyurethane. You need to clean the surface, sand or steel wool the finish to promote adhesion, clean the surface dust, and apply the finish. The best thing about spraying the finish is, once you have done all of the work of masking and after you realize just how quick the product applies via HVLP, you will not hesitate to top coat your new Polyshades finish in a clear polyurethane for the added protection suggested on the back of the Polyshades can. Important points: The color finish is completely uniform when using HVLP to apply The viscosity of Polyshades is ideal for spraying with HVLP Stir the product well before pouring into your paint cup and mix your paint cup while spraying Spraying the product will cut the application time DRAMATICALLY. If you were planning on spending 3 hours brushing, you will spend 20 minutes spraying. This is not an exaggeration. You will have a flat, stroke free finish Use a gravity sprayer (I say that only because that is what I used and it worked very well) Make the first coat as light as possible. It should only be a “sealant”. The color after the first coat should not be the desired end color. Using the HVLP method, after the second coat, the color was exactly as desired and advertised on the can. Keep in mind, this was going from a light Golden Oak to a very dark Espresso! The spray application end result is so much better, and the application time is so much shorter, the time taken to mask and protect the interior cabinet surrounding walls, counter tops, floor, ceiling, etc., is completely worth it. When spraying in-doors – WEAR A RESPIRATOR, establish forced ventilation, and do not over pressure your sprayer. Paint with the lowest pressure possible. Remember – HVLP – High Volume, Low Pressure. Finally, if you don’t believe spraying is the ideal application method or if you think Minwax would not recommend it, ask yourself why Polyshades is available in a spray can.
Polyurethane is not a good choice for a top coat on a cabinet, because the oils on hands and kitchen utensils will make it soft and sticky around the knobs. If you are just giving old cabinets a temporary facelift, this method would probably be o.k. but you will not receive a professional and long lasting finish. Spray applied laquer is a better choice.
how can I make the cabinets a lighter color vs keeping the dark look
Thank you Ron I just found your website and you DIY videos are wonderful! -Tina from Sacramento, CA
I stripped my oak cabinets and then sanded, and then applied a coat of combination stain and polyurethane it has now been a few months and my stain is sticky to the touch and leaves marks in the stain. Why won't they dry.
Yep polyshades has its uses, I black topped a computer desk, didn't mind if it wasn't piano finish perfect, it made a hard wearing surface and covered up the worn surface, but for cabinets, its just advanced technique to apply it without streaks, its not easy to apply it as a "tint" as one would imagine, it just doesn't self level enough to do that easily.
so, the painters staining the cabinets in our new house did not remove doors and my shiny nice new hinges are now brown from the stain they sprayed. they tell me they don't remove hinges that it's too hard to stain the doors when they are off. whatever. now how does a homeowner clean the hinges, after the staining and the finish has been sprayed on? I am sure I will be removing every single door and it will require soaking them in something. Maybe mineral spirits? I was appalled at their lack of pride in their painting services. We paid them good money and I have complained to the builder.
I have handles in the middle of my cabinet doors and would like to know if the stain would cover the filler that I put in the holes where the hardware was attached?
My cabinets are 12 years old not real sure what type of material they were made with. (Something cheap) Over the years they have lost the oak color. They look like they have water spots. What do you suggest I do paint or refinish.
What type of brush did you use?
I recently picked up some good cabinets on the side of the road n I would like to go about staining them...they are white and would like em stained dark...how would I go about this ...thanks :)
this was a very good information on how to refinish kitchen cabinets without sanding much and not using and primers
What if you have the 80's look handles in the middle of the door panels?How do you get rid of that look -- there will be holes to plug.
I did mine and I used a gel stain!
Thank you, great tip. I know i can handle this project myself.
I found this question further down, but I did not see an answer for it. If the sides of the cabinets are laminate would you use the same process?
Hi! I just found out I am moving into an apartment with the pulls in the middle of the cabinets. That's not my style and I'd like to refurbish them. Do you have any suggestions on how to cover up the old holds and allowing me to insert knobs where they are supposed to be?
I have these exact same hinges on my cabinets, and I am looking to replace them, what are they called, and where can I find them?
If the cabinets you are working with are all the same type of wood then first remove the finish by sanding, then choose the color you want and stain the cabinets.
Emily LymanRon Hazelton Team
Here is the instructions that you are looking for: http://www.ehow.com/how_786441...
You make the steps appear quite easy. My question is can you use a toothbrush for the narrow areas within the trim not available to the cloth with mineral spirits.
Thanks! Your video makes this home improvement seem do-able!
I just wanted to say, I am not a fan of the Polyshades for a complete transformation. I know if you are not careful you will apply too much finish to areas leaving it patchy coloured. If applied to thick it looks like a semi-transparent stain, making you loose the grain Sand down the cabinets... sand a little more, then after cleaning the dust off... Rub some darker stain over the item. Leave to dry and coat twice with a non coloured urethane. Sanding with some 800 grit paper inbetween. It will give a much nicer uniform finish. I am a professional painter.
Hello, We would like to restain existing kitchen cabinets (light oak) with a darker shade. We also have found the same type of cabinets to install for more cabinet space, but the color is slighter off (white washed). How do sand/prepare so that all kitchen cabinets will match? Thank you.
Nice video Ron!! I am looking for refinishing my oak kitchen cabinets. I want to apply a darker stain and also want to reduce the grain. Does a grain filler work? and when should I apply it in this process? Thanks.
If you would like a lighter look to your cabinets then using a wood stripper and/or more sanding is required to remove the darker finish. Once you have removed the darker finish then you can apply a lighter finish of your choosing.
Emily LymanRon Hazelton Team
If you are looking to refinish the cabinets with a stain then removing the white was is the first step. Here are some instructions on removing the white wash and refinishing with a stain: http://www.ehow.com/how_596297...
What to do with painted cabinets that have been "white washed" with a pale blue color years ago? Can they be stained or do I have to repaint? How does one go about it? Is there a sealer to put on top of paint in case I have to repaint them? would rather stain if possible. this paint has been on them for a number of years I guess. The house was built in 1967. Needs a facelift!!! Please advise. thanks