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by Ron Hazelton on September 06, 2014 in News
by Ron Hazelton on August 23, 2014 in News
Viewing Project in Doors > Interior Doors
thank you, this was very informative and helpful. And yes I caught the remote compartment opener of the van.. than you for my next project
Great video Only one comment in the first step of the wright up not the video, it says to remove the door then the remove molding. You need to take off the molding first then the door will come out.
Nice job Ron .
When I open my old pocket door, I get scratches on the side. It may be from a nail. How do I correct the problem?
"A thing of the past" ? Are you kidding?
i've used the same method for repairing holes in the wallboard where it happens "between studs", that you did for the cut out hole. i even had an old time plasterer show me a trick with using news print. and it works great especially for cracks in plaster,as in corners where a building has settled over the years. if you have "old" construction, sometimes they used to use the pocket as a chase for knob and tube wiring, have an electrician r&r the wiring and reroute it. i've discovered that at times the old wiring comes loose from the knob or tube wiring and will actually make contact with one another either intermittently or altogether, and causes fires especially when the same gauge wiring is used no matter what the actual fuse load is.
I had a pocket door at my other house I use to own. It need some repair work.My 2 boys were to young 6 & 7 at the time & I did not think I could do it by myself.So for the 10 years I was there I left it alone. I wish I had seen this then.
Quit telling people how to do this. That's how I make my living! LOL
The pocket door roller kit I bought from Home Depot had the wrench with it.
Hi Ron,Thanks for the video, very good instruction. However, my pocket door doesn't have a top track. Or a bottom track. I can kind of pull it out away from the opening a bit and it looks like it's mounted from the side. I've found one reference to a type of side mounted trackless pocket door (http://www.fixpocketdoors.com/...
) but it doesn't provide much information on how to fix it. Nor am I sure if that's exactly what I have. Do you have any information on other types of pocket doors or know where I can find information? Thanks.Bill in MI
Thanks a lot for this, saved me a tonne of time and effort on fixing a door that came off it's track, I had no idea how these things went together until I watched your video. Now if I ever get tired of the old track I'm pretty confident I can replace it to. Very well done video I'll be back here next time I've looking for any sort of construction project advice, certainly beats surfing youtube for a day till I find something that's even remotely worth watching
There are sliding door repair companies that have a tool that reaches in the wall. No need to cut a hole in the wall,
God, how is wish Ron was my brother-in-law! What a resource too have in any family. Thankfully, he shares his knowledge with us and makes it look so easy, which is most likely is when you know what you're doing! I had no idea how a pocket door worked except what I "supposed" made it work. Well, I was right but I never would have thought of cutting a large hole in the wall to gain better access. I would have tried to do everything through the pocket door opening - which would have never worked and that's what puzzled me. Now I know, Thanks Ron.
I have a pocket door in need of some maintenance. However, the walls in my house are plaster, not drywall. Therefore opening the wall to access the hardware would be a major repair. Is there a way to do this project without opening the wall?
Ron & Team - This video helped me repair my mother's pocket door with ease!! The hardest part was finding just the pocket door hardware (not the frame) in Las Vegas! Apparently not many people have pocket doors in that city. Once we found the hardware (3 hours later!), the project was a breeze, though I'm sure my helpers got sick of me saying, "...but the video said to.... " Haha
this was very helpful... pocket doors are a thing of the past but very glad there are still parts available
Where can I purchase the new track and rollers for the pocket door?Thanks Bernie
Can't open the the pocket door and only few years how installed. What you would suggest?
Thanks for a very well sequenced and descriptive procedure. I do NOT need to replace my door but need to reattach the rear carrier asm. No idea why it came undone but will after I remove the molding at the top.
I've had an annoying pocket door that won't open all the way and closes leaving a big gap at the top. Had I known it would be this easy to fix, I wouldn't have waited SIX YEARS! Thank you for an awesome video that describes everything so well (including to cut a space large enough for the drill!). This will be my weekend project, thanks so much!
Thank you for taking the time to show us how to do this job the right way.
Nice informative video on the pocket door. One thing not mentioned was replacing the guide at the bottom of the door. It keeps the bottom of the door sliding straight and is located inside the wall and seemingly impossible to get to. There must be some special type of tool to remove and replace it.
I've been doing this for 30 plus years and always fun to see another craftsman doing it right.. Keep teaching em Ron.
Excellent piece Ron. I need to do just this and I think I can...now with your guidance. Once again, thank you!
Ron. you make every job look fun and that's the way it should be.
One thing I've noticed is that anytime you do drywall work, you always patch and then sand smooth. My guess is that you don't have textured walls. Out here in CA, everyone seems to have textured walls, which makes drywall work tougher. It's always hit or miss with me trying to match the texture, especially if patching a wall/ceiling that has lots of layers of paint. Perhaps you can do a video on this.
Plaster is a whole different beast than drywall. No, it won't cut like drywall. But you can remove the plaster, then lath that holds it. If smooth surfaced plaster, you can just replace with drywall, if textured, use thinner drywall and plaster over it for the texture. Quite a bit more work to finish it up.
Assuming the tile doesn't go all the way between two rooms and under the door, removing the tile that extends to the threshold under the door would be the easiest. Remove enough to put finishing strip or just grout for the edge and your door will work. Otherwise, if you can get the door out even a little bit (1/16 or more, with careful use of a flattish saw, japanese type, or even a hacksaw blade), you could cut a little, knock it away, pull door out more, cut more, etc. and repeat 'til the door is short enough to pull out. LOTS of tedious work though and you will have to be careful not to scratch the tile put a piece of thin wood on top of tile, that'll give a bit more clearance fo the door when done as well). Finally, if you have or can get identical replacement floor tiles, just remove the ones at the threshold, open/remove the door and shorten to clear, then replace the tiles. Good luck.
If you can't find the original manufacturer of the rails, try any mfg that makes similar and call, email or write them. Otherwise, there ARE very flat wrenches available for purchase from specialty tool places. Or pick up a cheap wrench and use a grinder (bench or angle) to slim it to the size you need.
Very nice, thanks for showing the insides of the pocket door.
Now I'd like to replace a door with a pocket door, and might even tackle it with this new knowledge!
For those that live in S. CA, or other places where smooth walls are NOT the norm, and the texturing varies all over the place, depending on who panted/finished that room last, I've not found a really good way to finish off the patch to the drywall to match. Ah well, life is full of challenges.
I would always pass on this project in the past. Now that I see that the new hardware is adjustable,.......piece of cake. Thanks Ron
Awesome job and always real work and detail. The best.
Thanks Ron; I get several requests to repair doors, wheather the pocket, or swing style. The cutting out the drywall along a wall has always ben the issue as most customers are squemish of the repair. Your solution of not useing tape was a great help ,as I can use a fast drying mud and cut the repair time down considerably. the thickness of the wooden strips used, and the drywall screws legnth will be applicable as to the particular structure. As I said, Thanks ever so much for showing this repair.
DarrenI would like to be able to watch a step by step complete install of a pocket door . But Ron you are the greatest . especially your quotes for the day . signed weekend warrior .
i love pocket doors but i wish i had a dime for everyone i had to remove when renovating old buildings. i didn't relish doing it either!!!!
Thanks Ron for this video, I have 4 of these doors and I had no idea on how to get them out to repair them. Now I know, Tom
Thanks for the video on pocket doors. I have a pocket door that cannot be used because a previous owner tiled the floor and thus tiled the pocket door into its box. I have been wondering how to correct this problem. Now I have to decide if I need to just replace the tile in the door area or remove the pocket door, sand the bottom to clear the tile and put the door back. Anyone have any suggestions on which course of action would be the easiest, cheapest and best?
Sounds like everyone got all of the steps, but there are some missing this time around. You said it was tricky to make the shallow indent, then the video stopped and there were no more. Where can I find the remaining videos??
May God Bless you, Ron! You are a smart man and make everything seem very do-able, You give me pep and energy to attack these endless chores. Thanks!
Great video. But as I get down to details. I anticipate two issue not addressed in the video.
First, when I look at the specs for a Johnson Hardward kit like Ron used; it'll require 3-1/4 'vertical space versus ~1-3/4 for the old hardware (which looks a lot like what Ron removed). Could Ron have cut ~ 1-1/2'' off the door and not have told us? ;=)
Secondly, can I put the new wheels in backwards on the rail? e.g. with the two wheels on wrong side. If so, I'll surely get it wrong first try. Instructions from Johnson may answer this.
If anyone has encounter either, I'd appreciate feedback. House guest coming and they'll want to close the half bath door!
Richard in Buda, TX 12/22/12
This is EXACTLY the type of door I want to fit in the spare bedroom to give more room inside! Please will you come and fit this for me! hahaha! ;)
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Good luck with your project,
Emily LymanRon Hazelton Team
Excellant video, My hat is off to you.
I haven't read all the comments but someone has pointed out that the door has been shaven or trimmed on the jamb side (closing) and another very important point you left from the video is where you repair the wall. You made no mention of using no more than 1" to 1 1/4" maximum screw length when repairing the drywall. Any longer of a screw will result in scratching the door when it is pushed back into the wall and then even more scratching it when closing it. And you should also mention not to use more than a 1/2" to 3/4" thick board for the backing on the drywall reapir otherwise there will be contact with the door as well. Great informative video otherwise. DonDon@palmerbayne.comhttp://www.palmerbayne.comBayne Junction Woodworks
some should make some hi quality low profile wheels that could be put under the door and make the repair much easier without having to cut the hole in the wall.
Excellent video. I've had to endure a broken pocket door for years and this step-by-step instruction will be a big help toward finally getting this fixed. Thanks!
Well this video gives me hope that I can tackle this job myself. What have I got to lose in trying, it doesn't work well now. So I must say you've given me the motivation to at least try. Just need to buy a saw and a few tools. Thanks for the insight