How to Repair Broken Corners and Edges on Furniture

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RON HAZELTON:

This armoire is kind of special to me. It came out of the Intercontinental Hotel in New York City while they were having a liquidation sale. Now I like the way that it looks but it also has some really nice features.

My wife and I do a lot of TV watching from bed and this has got a great pull-out and swivel at just the right height. And down here, a real hotel bonus feature, a built-in refrigerator. But because this was a liquidation sale, I had to carry this out myself and in the process I broke off the corner right here.

It’s the only thing about this armoire that’s kind of bugged me, so I’m going to fix it right now. Now this armoire is in two sections. I’ve slid the top in this direction so that it’s overhanging. That will allow me to work on it more easily. Now what’s going to allow me to make this repair right here in the bedroom is this material. It’s actually called Polyester Resin.

You can think of it as a putty with a hardener. I’m going to be putting it on this area here, letting it harden and then shape it. But in order to keep this from spilling off onto the floor, I’ve taken a scrap piece of wood and I’m going to attach this right under here.

I spray some WD40 on the board to act as a release agent and keep the putty from sticking to the wood. Then clamp the board in place. I remove a golf ball sized scoop of putty and place it on a scrap piece of acrylic plastic for mixing.

This hardener comes with the putty and acts as a catalyst, starting a chemical reaction that will turn the material from really gooey into rock hard. The more hardener I put in, the faster the putty will set up. The amount I added today will give me about five minutes of work time.

What I’m trying to do here is fill up the void left by the broken away wood. I don’t worry about being overly neat. The idea is just to get the material in place while it’s soft.

Now as this material dries, there’s a window, maybe five or ten minutes when it’s firm but pliable, easily shaped. And that’s where I am right now. So I’m going to begin removing the excess material.
[MUSIC]

I removed most of the extra putty by simply cutting it away with a utility knife. In a few more minutes, the material will be way too hard to do this.

The putty is now firm enough that I can remove the board and begin shaping. Files and rasps work well for this. The tool I’m using though is called a micro plane. I like it because the stainless steel cutting teeth are very sharp and non-clogging.

It if reminds you of a cheese grater, that’s because the manufacturer also makes kitchen utensils using the very same technology.

With most of the shaping done, I’m ready to start smoothing the surface. Sandpaper wrapped around dowels works really well for this.

[MUSIC]

I use larger dowels for bigger curves and smaller dowels for tighter ones.
[MUSIC]

Well the missing material has been replaced. Now the challenge is going to be to restore the color and finish. This filler that I put in here won’t accept wood stain so that’s not an option.

Instead I’m going to be using artist’s acrylic colors. For this project, the colors I’ll use most will be the earth tones, sienna and umber along with red. I dip my brush in water and mix two or more of the colors together until I’ve got a shade that looks close.

Then I apply it to the surface. If the color is off, I just let it dry a few minutes and try again by painting a different color on top.
[MUSIC]

Okay, I’ve replaced the missing material, gotten the color to match. Now I need to put a top coat on so that the sheen or shine will also match. And for that, I’ll sue spray lacquer.

I keep the spray can about a foot or so from the surface moving in even strokes. And take my finger off the nozzle at the end of each pass. Several light coats works best.
[MUSIC]

Well there you go, you’d never know that little mishap took place and my piece of hotel history, well it’s never looked better.

A technique for replacing and restoring missing or damaged edges and corners on furniture and cabinets.

This attractivel armoire was rescued from a landmark New York City hotel that was going out of business. The piece was in great shape except for one corner that was broken off and missing.

NOTE: The polyester resin used in this project is available from most home improvement centers, online and from auto parts stores.

Step 1

Support the Wood Filler with a Small Board during Application

Clamp a flat smooth scrap of wood beneath the repair area to support the polyester resin during application. Spray the board first with WD-40 lubricant to limit sticking and make it release easily after the resin dries.

Step 2

Mix the Catalyst and Wood Filler Resin before Repair Application

Scoop a small amount of resin wood filler onto a flat surface and mix in the supplied catalyst before applying it to the furniture repair. Per directions, more catalyst will speed up the chemical reaction that hardens the resin.

Step 3

Apply the Activated Resin Wood Filler Quickly before It Hardens

Apply the mixture to the broken furniture quickly to fill gaps and form a thick edge that can be shaped like the original later. Neatness is not too critical, but applying sufficient mixture before the resin hardens is important.

Step 4

Cut away Excess Resin Wood Filler with a Utility Knife

Let the resin wood filler set to a firm-but-pliable consistency. Remove most of the excess material from the furniture repair. Start by cutting the edges with a utility knife, leaving enough margin for finer shaping in the next steps.

Step 5

Shape the Fully-hardened Resin Wood Filler

Unclamp the wood support and begin shaping the fully-hardened resin wood filler. Use a wood rasp or stainless steel micro-blade that is designed to remain free of debris. Contour the surface to mimic the undamaged area of the furniture.

Step 6

Smooth the Resin Wood Filler Furniture Repair with Sandpaper

Wrap sandpaper around a wooden dowel to smooth small curved surfaces of the furniture repair, using the free edges to hold the make-shift tool. Match the diameter of the dowel to the size of the curved resin wood filler surface.

Step 7

Paint the Completed Resin Shape with Artist's Acrylic Colors

Paint the smoothed resin wood filler with artist's acrylic colors. The resin does not accept wood stain. Mix earth tones with red or other highlights to match the wood and apply another coat if the color is not exact.

Step 8

Mask Off the Furniture Repair and Protect the Surrounding Finish

Mask off the resin wood filler repair when the acrylic paint dries. Painters tape and newspaper work well. Add a face mask for your own protection, because you will be working with an aerosol lacquer in the final step.

Step 9

Spray the Resin Wood Filler with Lacquer for Gloss

Coat the resin wood filler repair with lacquer, holding the spray can a foot from the surface. Move back and forth in several light passes, removing your finger from the spray button at the end of each pass.

How to Use Adjustable C-Clamps

Creative Ways to Get More Out of the Clamps You’ve Got

How to Cut Cleanly with a Utility Knife

How to Sand Wood by Hand

How to Make a Sandpaper Cutter

How to Choose a Paint Brush

31Project Comments

We welcome your ideas and suggestions. Read through comments from other readers or leave your own.

extremely helpful, confidence builder!

markJ

Apr 1, at 12:46pm

Hey Ron, say a prayer for me, I am about to repair a damaged corner of my wife’s dinning table.

Also, I am having trouble finding an “Odd-angle calulator like the one you used in your video of cutting and installing ceiling/wall cornice. I’ve looked at Lowes & Home Depot without luck…can you give me a suggestion? Can I buy it from whoever makes it?

Thanks

Old Ron

Feb 28, at 4:53pm

I do furniture repair for a living..clear tape instead WD-40 ..Nothing sticks to it..no glue no epoxy, and you don’t have to worry about fish eyes ..you can also shape the corner using cardboard with the clear tape, makes for less sanding

Peter

Feb 22, at 9:50pm

Auto body filler is a lot cheaper and works about the same.

No WD-40 anywhere near these repairs as it can screw up the bond between the wood and the filler material as well as the subsequent painting and finishing due to the oil content. Use a piece of waxed paper if you have it. Or plain printer paper can be used on top of the backer board as it can be easily sanded off.

Dennis P

Feb 20, at 5:40pm

the voice volume to low and the music was too loud and not needed on any of the tips

ernest camerino

Feb 7, at 11:11pm

Thank you so much. This will be very helpful with future projects. Glad you advised that the wood filler won’t take wood stain and that you used artist acrylic paint for the match.

Bill

Feb 6, at 2:06pm

If you can’t find the “wood filler”, auto body filler is the same stuff, commonly called, the famous brand name, Bondo.

One thing I would mention is: be careful spraying the WD40. I personally wouldn’t use it anywhere near a place I was going to spray paint, for fear of fish eyes in the finish. I would just cover the backer wood with aluminum foil instead of anything petroleum based.

Aluminum foil is an auto body repairman’s trade secret.

Shane

Feb 6, at 12:13am

A VERY NICE JOB Ron. Thanks for a very informative video. This definitely will come in handy.

MaryAnn

Feb 5, at 6:17pm

Nice job Ron i am going to give this one a try

CHRIS SIATTA

Feb 5, at 4:01pm

Love your tips, have just the use for this one.

Kim

Feb 5, at 3:33pm

Another great tip! Especially about using paint since stain won’t work. Thanks Ron!

Dave

Feb 5, at 2:54pm

Thanks for the useabe knowledge that even I can manage

Willa Luthi

Feb 5, at 2:21pm

CAN’T GO WRONG WITH “RON”

LARRY

Feb 5, at 1:05pm

Ron I have used this method also on different repairs. One of them is to repair old tombstones. I add sandstone or marble dust to the resin while mixing and shape or make a form of what I am trying to duplicate. Then sand and shape to desired shape. Then by using epoxy cement you are able to attach it to the stone. We do this free of charge through the Historical Society here. If you would like to see some pictures of before and after I can send them to you. Thanks Carroll

Carroll Peppersack

Feb 5, at 12:33pm

Ron. That is a great repair, I have use this method also on different projects. I have also used this to repair very old tombstones that have pieces broken off and been lost. You can add limestone or marble dust to the resin while mixing and if you work it before it completely sets up it works great. I have some pictures of some of the repairs I have made on some of the tombstones we have worked on and if you would like to see them email me.
I work on these free of charge through our Historical Society here.
Yes this is a great way to repair a lot of things. Thanks Ron
Carroll

Carroll Peppersack

Feb 5, at 12:22pm

That looks like a very useful product I never knew they had finlly developed a wood filler that is worthwhile I am going to try to get some and try it out, as I had previously used automotive body filler but a product actually designed for wood should be better.
Thanks for all your tips etc., Ron.

Charlene Edwards

Feb 5, at 12:22pm

i’ve even used bondo auto body filler for the same thing years ago.

richard crowley

Feb 5, at 12:15pm

.great matching job , I have a lot of pieces to repair. Thanks Ron

George Noonan

Feb 5, at 12:14pm

wow! Who knew! what a great product & great demo! I really enjoy all your projects!

KarenKopp

Feb 5, at 12:13pm

That was a great job. Now I have to try to do the same thing on a book shelve
that was messed up while moving.
Thanks for this tip.

Ernie

Feb 5, at 11:56am

Very nice job You made that look so easy Thanks for the tips

MurphyT

Feb 5, at 10:42am

It looks like your years as a furniture tech have served you well. Not just that, to be able to do this stuff and make it instructional is a talent all its own. From one furniture tech to another I enjoy “looking over your shoulder” because it’s enjoyable watching the work you do.All I can say is this ain’t magic, it’s technical and this is one proper repair! Job well done.

Daniel Shafner

Feb 5, at 9:56am

Good job. To strengthen the repair, nail brads into the broken wood so when you place your filler on they will be below the finished repair. This will double the strength of the repair.

Willard Schuffert

Feb 5, at 8:59am

Awesome Ron, thanks for making it look so easy!

Jo Ann

Feb 5, at 8:24am

AWESOME, as a mover I wish I’d seen this sooner. I will be using your video, Thanks, Robert

Robert

Feb 5, at 7:36am

This is a very helpful video. I am glad to see a project like this to encourage people to fix damaged, but beautiful pieces of wood furniture.

Susan

Feb 5, at 7:25am

I"ve tried plastic wood and it was a total mess. It’s so nice to see actually how you do it (even though you’re an expert) but now I am really excited about fixing some antique furniture.

Lisa

Feb 5, at 7:18am

I’ve seen you do these Bondo repairs on your show more than once. I’ve always been tempted to try, but never done it, due to some reservations.

Watching you do it, the process almost seems magical, but I wonder how much skill/talent it takes. Do you have to do this several times to get the technique down? Should, I practice on a throw away object before trying a real object?

Was the fine tuning with sandpaper done while the compound was still in the workable state, or was it done after it had hardened?

Five minutes working time is intimidating.

I have read that the use of Bondo outdoors will fail because the wood will shrink and swell from moisture but the Bondo will not, so the repair will break away from the original object at the seam.

jim

Feb 5, at 6:23am

New puppy chewed furniture. Looks easy going to give it as try . Nice simple video.

Randolph

Jan 26, at 7:08pm

what great explanation and a great method. i knew it didn’t have to be hard! thanks!

cyn

Jan 17, at 11:56pm

thanks a bunch! this was very helpful and gave me plenty of ideas on how to fix the cabinet corners my dog chewed off.

nick bauer

Sep 23, at 7:57pm

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