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Next, install the lattice side panels. If you're working by yourself, you can make a gauge to ensure that the lattice pieces will be level. Clamp a strip of plywood with a stop on the top (the strip and stop form an upside down capital "L"), to the post so the long strip hangs flat against the post.
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Line up a wooden block along the bottom of the wooden strip. This block will serve as a height gauge. After clamping the block in place, remove the plywood strip you used as the gauge and leave the block where it is.
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This plywood gauge will carry the weight of the lattice panel, leaving your hands free to clamp the panel to the post.
Since the gauge will make every panel section the same distance from the top of the post, your panel heights won't be affected by minor bumps or depressions in the ground near the other posts.
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| Because these posts have an extruded
aluminum core, you'll need a special fastener called a
self-tapping screw. Its end is machined like a drill bit;
it will actually bore and tap itself right into the aluminum,
and it has a very small head, called a finish head. |
First, drill a clearance hole in the lattice panel large enough to accommodate the screw shaft. Then insert the self-tapping screw and drive the drill point through the aluminum core, countersinking the head. Do this at the tops and bottoms of both posts. |
Make a spacer using a 2x4 and a wide-bore drill bit, cut to the exact length of the distance between the panels. The spacer ensures that the width between the panels is exactly the same, front and rear. Notice how the holes near the end give you an easy place to put the clamps. |
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| Once the spacer is in place, drop the rear posts into the holes, clamp them to the lattice panel, and attach them with the same rust-resistant self tapping screws. |
Before you set the arch, slip on any decorative collars that you may have purchased for the project. They should fit right over the tops of the posts. |
Because the top is fully assembled, it's pretty heavy. Do not try to place it alone! You could skew the posts or scratch the panels by dropping it, or worse, injure yourself. Have a strong friend give you a hand. The four bases of the arch will sit atop the four posts. |
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| The arch has an extension that fits snugly into a recess on the top of the posts. To make sure it's resting at the proper height when you screw it in, cut a spacer block that will center the collar over the joint between the bottom and the arch. Then screw the collars in place. |
With everything set, do a final check for plumb, then fill the hole to the top and compact the rock with the pry bar. You're nearly finished. |
For the last step, you'll be installing the gate. Install a temporary base with a 2x4 and spacers, then use a level to make sure it's level across the span between the posts. |
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The base gives you a stable support on which to set the gate while you install it. You might want to place a couple of spacers on the hinge side as well. Clamp the gate into place so that everything will stay positioned where you want it, and you'll have both hands free to install the hinges. |
Sturdy reproduction strap hinges matched the traditional look of the gate. Once again, let your clamps do the holding work. First, drill screw shaft clearance holes, then follow them with pilot holes into the aluminum channel. Finally, drive in the screws. |
The post side of the hinge is in two parts, a bottom and a top. Install the gate latch . . . |
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. . . and replace the fence sections. |
If you have small children, be sure to install a self-closing mechanism on the inside of the gate. Make sure the child-safe latch is well outside of the little ones' reach. |
You're all set! Modern manufacturing techniques have allowed traditional design to be replicated with a material that will last a very long time. Now all you have to do is wait for those roses or ivy vines to grow. |
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