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| Repeat the process for the shelf that will fit inside of the bar. Wrap the ends of the shelf in plastic and clamp battens along the ends. The plastic will prevent the battens from sticking to the bar. |
Once the glue has cured, use a
sharp paint scraper to remove any glue that has been squeezed
out between the boards of the bar top and shelf. Be careful
to keep the scraper flat and do not let the corners gouge
the wood. |
Remove the battens from the ends of the bar shelf. Four cedar boards now form a seemingly single piece. The illusion will be complete after sanding. |
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| First, lay a piece of non-slip
shelf liner
or carpet underlay on the work bench to help keep
the work pieces from slipping while you sand it. |
Next, use a belt sander to eliminate any ridges or differences in board thickness. |
An orbital sander with 100 grit paper will remove any marks left on the bar top by the band sander. |
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| Trim off the ends of the bar using a circular saw. Use a saw guide to ensure that your cut is perfectly straight and square. |
To allow the bar to fold, use a piano hinge on each of the inside corners of the bar. First, clamp the sides together and position the piano hinge. |
Next, using an electric drill, attach the piano hinge to the frame with screws. |
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| With the base unfolded on the floor, set the top in place and trace the outline on the underside of the bar top. |
Attach small strips of wood along the drawn lines and secure them with screws. These strips will help guide the top of the bar into position and hold the sides in place. |
To increase the bar's thickness and create a cap for the edge, cut rabbet grooves into strips of cedar and miter the ends at a 45 degree angle. |
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| Nail these strips into place along the outside edges of the bar. |
On the inside of the unit, nail small strips to the front and the sides. These strips will help to support the shelf. |
Cut notches into the corners of the shelf to accomodate the hinges and frames of the side panels. |
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