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| Check the rough openingto be sure that all sides are plumb and level. |
Measure the rough opening to be sure it can accomodate the new door. You may need to nail a layer of plywood to the jambs, sill and/or header to ensure a proper fit. |
Lay down a strip of foil tape with a butyl rubber adhesive backing, which runs along the sill and 6" up the jamb on either side. Make small cuts at the corners so thet the tape can wrap along the edges. |
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| Cover the threshold and line the remainder of the opening's surfaces around the perimeter. Be sure to wrap all of the edges, to ensure the seal will be completely watertight around the entire opening. |
Replace the sill support and nail it in position. |
Apply three parallel beads of silicone to the tape covering the threshold, to make an absolutely watertight seal. |
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| Bend the metal fins along the edge of the new door so that they are perpendicular to the frame. |
Have a friend help to set the heavy new frame into the rough opening, bottom first, and then tilt it upright, so as not to disturb the beads of caulk along the threshold. |
Fasten the metal fins to the top of the frame using roofing nails. This will hold the door in place. |
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| Check the new door to be sure the base is level and the jambs are plum. Adjust with cedar shims to make sure the frame is level, plumb and secure. |
Use screws to fasten the latch side of the door frame to the rough opening, through the shims, at the top and bottom. |
On the outside, use roofing nails to fasten the rest of the metal fins to the exterior of the rough opening. |
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| Fill the screw holes in the sill with silicone before driving in the screws. This will protect the sill from water damage. Now secure the top and bottom of the frame with screws. |
Add one final layer of butyl-backed aluminum tape to the metal nailing fins. |
Insert the sliding door and replace the exterior trim, first on top and then on the sides. |
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