by Ron Hazelton on November 23, 2015 in News
by Ron Hazelton on November 17, 2015 in News
by Ron Hazelton on September 29, 2015 in News
Viewing in Safety
Wooden countertops and cutting boards require special care in order to protect the wood and avoid contaminating food. Proper sealing also helps prevent stains and discoloration.
i have got laminate counter tops since the marks on wood were permanent and it wasn't easy for maintenance but here it seems a great and easy way out to keep the wood tops tidy .
Is this before or after you stain it?
You are calling a chemical engineer wrong here Bro. Think what you want but what I posted it fact.
There is a lot more information you need to cure a new wooden cutting board. There is a procedure. First home from the store you wash it with a mild liquid soap. After it's thoroughly dry you apply a coat of Food Grade Mineral Oil. Let it stand for about 5 - 10 minutes. Do that every day for the first week. Then do the same once a week for the following month. After that, once a month for the next year. From then on it's pretty much an as needed deal.
NEVER cut meat on the veggie and fruit cutting board. Keep a separate one for that which can be cleaned with hot water and strong soap.
And remember when slicing, keep your finger tips under.
You should be able to catch the show online. Check their web site for information on that.
Absolutely not true. There really is a difference.
mineral oil is not mineral oil, there is a difference in food grade. I'm sure your thinking of the mineral oil you get at a drug store, that usually has USP on it, which means its purer than food grade, which it would be fine to use. there is a commercial grade, I wouldn't want to eat anything that that has come in contact with, because you have no idea what was mixed in the drum before. It could of had paint thinners or caustics in the handling systems. Whereas food grade or USP grade has no contact with any impurities and the handling systems have been cleaned and inspected
Mineral oil is mineral oil. If you use the "food grade" you are just paying more for nothing. That label is just a marketing gimmick, believe me.
Really great information. Thanks!
Good advice, but be sure to use food grade mineral oil for food prep areas. On areas that are not for food prep, poly is okay, but it is a surface sealer. If poly get damaged, you will be refinishing the whole top to get it looking good. I have used WaterLox for over 40 years to finish table tops because it is a penetrating resin sealer, not just a top coat. If you damage a WaterLox finish, you can fix the damaged area without having to refinish the entire top. It also comes as a gloss finish or a satin finish. It also makes a better finish for refinishing wood floors for the same reason, you can repair damages without having to refinish the entire floor.
Also a tip for storing WaterLox or any finish the skims over in the container. Get a can of the "air" used to clean keyboards. It is not really air, but a chemical that will replace the air in the can. Before sealing the can, insert the tip the the spray under this lid (about two seconds) and fill the can with the spray and put the lid on. This will remove the air and it will not skim over. You will even hear the lid pop like a canning jar.
I have a desk all wood. I think this may work for me... Thanks Ron
I used mineral oil, but it designated "Food Grade Mineral Oil"