Pergolas have been used since ancient times by peoples such as the Greeks, Romans, and Egyptians who lived nearer Earth's equator where the sunlight is more direct. These shade structures are sometimes called arbors, bowers, or trellises, but the more exact name "pergola" derives from the Latin word "perugula," meaning "a projecting roof." They generally consist of a colonnade--a series of regularly placed columns or posts--connected by cross-beams but without a roof or walls. The goal was a structure and sitting area that admitted breezes and light, but kept out the direct rays of the fierce equatorial sun. Training climbing plants along the pergola enhanced its architectural beauty and sun protection.

Millennia later and thousands of miles away from the Mediterranean, that goal is shared by the Florida homeowners in this project. They plan to construct a small pergola to add shade, charm, and style to an unattractive corner of their back yard where a shed used to stand. To complete the project, they need to sink the posts for the colonnade and add the support beams and rafters.

Step
1

Plan and Prepare for Your Project
Plan the dimensions of your project and check with the utility companies to ensure that there are no gas, water, or electric lines near the chosen site for your pergola. Determine where to sink the six posts--three on each side to support the rafters. The supports must align on each side and be parallel with their twin on the other side. You also need to plan the width, depth, and height of the pergola, adjusting as necessary to fit it into the available space. Don't forget work gloves and safety goggles.

Step
2

Align a Straightedge for a Front Reference
Align a two-by-two across the front of the intended location for the pergola. In this project, there is an obvious location between a poured concrete area and the pre-existing stonework foundation from the old shed.

Step
3

Mark the Front Right Corner with a Stake
Mark the first corner by driving a stake into the ground at right angles to the two-by-two. In our plan, this is the front right corner of the pergola as we face it.

Step
4

Wrap String Around the Post for a Side marker
Wrap string around the post and extended it as a side marker, parallel with the stake and at right angles to the two-by-two. Bring the string off the inside edge of the stake.

Step
5

Confirm the Position of the String and Straightedge
Lay a large right-angled triangular measure against the two-by-two and the string to confirm that they are positioned at 90 degrees to each other.

Step
6

Drive a Second Stake to Mark the Back Corner
Drive in a second stake on the outer edge of the string to mark the back right corner after measuring to ensure the correct distance from the first stake. Do not disturb the string as you hammer in the post with a hammer or mallet.

Step
7

Measure for a Middle Stake
Measure for a middle stake and tie a piece of string or ribbon on the string as a temporary marker. Drive in the third stake on that side. Repeat this process to position three post locations on the other side of the pergola. Ensure they are at right angles to the front two-by-two marker and parallel to the stakes on the other side. You should now have six exactly positioned stakes for the preliminary location of the pergola support posts.

Step
8

Cut the Bottom Out of a Small Bucket
Cut the bottom out of a small bucket or round plastic container as a template to mark the outside dimensions of the postholes.

Step
9

Set the Bucket Over the Stake and Mark the Perimeter
Set the bucket over each stake, one at a time, and use a squeeze bottle to dust the outside perimeter of the postholes with powdered chalk.

Step
10

Remove the Bucket without Disturbing the Chalk
Remove the bucket without disturbing the chalk to leave a perfectly round guide for digging the postholes. Mark all six postholes in this manner.

Step
11

Dig a Hole 3-Feet Deep for Each Post
Use a posthole digger to dig out the holes within the chalk circles. In this project, we excavated to a depth of three feet to meet Florida state building codes. Because Florida is frequently subjected to hurricanes, the holes must be that deep to keep the posts stable during high winds. We actually made the holes a few inches deeper in preparation for the next step.

Step
12

Add Crushed Rock to the Bottom of the Hole
Add about 2- to 3-inches of crushed rock to the bottom of the hole to provide some drainage and help prevent the post ends from soaking up moisture and rotting.

Step
13

Set Each Post in Its Hole
Position the posts in each hole. Three people were required to position the heavy six-by-six posts for this project.

Step
14

Strap on a Post Level to Ensure Each Post Is Plumb
Strap on a post level to ensure that each post is plumb in both directions--front to back and left to right.

Step
15

Clamp on Temporary Braces to Support the Posts
Clamp some temporary braces in place for added support as you make the incremental adjustments to ensure the post is perfectly vertical. The braces should oppose each other at right angles to support the posts in two different planes.

Step
16

Drive in Stakes and Clamp on the Braces
Drive stakes into the ground to support the braces and attach the temporary braces with additional clamps.

Step
17

Pour in Dry Concrete Mix and Water
Pour in the dry quick-setting concrete and add a gallon of water per bag. It requires no mixing. Add the concrete mix to all the posts and let the concrete set.

Step
18

Add Small Ledgers
Add small temporary ledgers/supports to the corner posts on each side of the pergola to temporarily support the two-by-ten framing beams that will, in turn, support the rafters. These ledgers should protrude at least 2 inches on both the left and right sides of the posts to support the framing when it is set on edge. Position them at the correct elevation to support the framing with its upper edge flush with the tops of the post. Ensure they are level and attached the ledgers to the posts with two screws each to stop them from rotating.

Step
19

Pre-drill Shank Holes in the Framing Beams
Pre-drill shank holes in the four framing beams that will hold the rafters. You will need two holes positioned at each of the three posts for a total of 6 holes in each beam. You should also chamfer the ends of the beams, cutting off the bottom corner at exact 45-degree angles so that they are identical across all the beams.

Step
20

Drive Screws Through the Shank Holes and Into the Posts
Drive screws through the shank holes to attach the beams temporarily to the posts. Secure a beam to both the left and right sides of the posts to sandwich them between the two-by-tens, running from front to back of the pergola.

Step
21

Mark Locations to Pre-drill for Carriage Bolts
Mark two places to drill shank holes for the carriage bolts that will permanently secure the beams to each post. Position the marks diagonally from one another to lessen the chance that the holes will split the posts.

Step
22

Pre-drill through the Beam, Post, and Second Beam
Drill through the beam, through the post, and through the other beam at each of the two marks made earlier.

Step
23

Hammer in Carriage Bolts and Secure with Washers and Nuts
Drive in carriage bolts with a hammer, beginning at the inside beam and securing the bolts with washers and nuts at the outside beam.

Step
24

Tighten the Nuts with a Socket Wrench
Tighten them with a socket wrench.

Step
25

Chamfer the Rafters to Match the Support Beams
Chamfer the bottom corners of the rafters at 45-degree angles to match the chamfers on the support beams. Use a miter saw to make the cuts.

Step
26

Position the First Rafter
Position the first rafter. Center it across the beams so that the same amount of rafter overhangs each side of the support beams. Ensure the rafter is parallel to the front of the pergola and to the posts.

Step
27

Position Hurricane Clips Under the Rafters
Position a hurricane clip on the bottom side of the rafter where it rests on the support beams.

Step
28

Drive in a Temporary Screw to Hold the Clip
Drive in a single screw to hold the clips in position temporarily.

Step
29

Hammer in Bracket Nails to Secure the Clips Permanently
Hammer in hot-dipped galvanized bracket nails to secure the hurricane clips. Hammer in three nails and then remove the screw and hammer in the fourth.

Step
30

Space and Secure the Remaining Rafters
Use a spacer board to position the next and each consecutive rafter with the identical space between them. Ensure they are parallel to the first rafter and the posts, and secure them with hurricane clips. On completion of this step, the homeowners removed the paving stone floor and replaced them with a bed of river pebbles.