How to Make a Four Season Room from a Porch

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Comments (39)

RON HAZELTON:
Forty years ago when my house was built, screened-in porches were a great idea. But that was back in the days before central air conditioning was as common as it is today. But maybe all that air conditioning has made me a bit soft or spoiled, because as comfortable as this room is today, for a lot of the year, I find it too cold or too warm out here. So what I want to do is make this into a four seasons room. I want to preserve the cross ventilation and the great views but I want to be able to use it, year round.

I start my project by prying off the wood stops that are holding the screen panels in place. Once the inside stops are removed, a few taps with a mallet from the outside nudges the panels free. Then I can just lift them out.

Since the porch construction is pretty straightforward, eight columns supporting the roof, about the only other demolition I have to do is to remove some trim from the posts. Well, I'm finished with the destruction. Now I want to start the construction.

And I want to begin by putting a short wall between the posts about three feet high. Because everything from there up is gonna be windows. I grab a few two by fours out of my truck for the sill and bottom plate, then cut them to length so they'll fit between the posts. The bottom board is pressure treated. On top of that, I lay a standard two by four, then attach the two boards together.

This carbide tip masonry bit also bores through wood. Now the idea here is to put the boards in place and drill through just far enough to make a locator mark on the stone below. Then I switch over to a hammer drill, also equipped with a masonry bit and finish boring the holes.

A piece of tape on the drill shank acts as a depth guide. Next, I drive expansion anchor bolts into the holes I've just drilled. To make an airtight seal, I lay down a strip of foam insulation. Then slip the screwed together two by fours over the bolts.

I install washers and nuts and tighten everything with a socket wrench. As the nuts are tightened, the bolts expand inside the holes, jamming themselves in place and securing the boards to the floor. Finally, I trim away the excess foam.

Then I repeat the process for the other wall sections. Well, my double base plate is in securely fastened to the deck. Now what I'm gonna do is build a short wall here complete with a top plate and studs about every 16 inches.

The end studs are nailed to the posts. Then the top plate or sill is set in place. I check for level, then nail it down. Next, I install studs every 16 inches or so, making sure they're plumb or vertical. Then end nail at the top and toe nail at the bottom.

Well, that finishes this side of the porch. That's a porch for now, I guess, soon to be a room. Now I'm gonna do the same thing on this wall and that one over there.

This wall is going to have a glass sliding door. All I have to do here is add a couple of two by fours to reduce the rough opening to the proper size. Now next, I want to begin to actually enclose this by applying plywood sheeting on the outside.

I tilt the sheeting up, slide it into position, then attach it with a clamp. Now this leaves my hands free to work. A couple of nails along the top will hold the plywood in place. This simple T-square that I've made up from some scrap one by twos, allows me to quickly draw locator lines for the studs.

Even on a short wall like this, it's easy to drift sideways and miss the framing. The lines make sure every nail finds its mark.
[MUSIC]
Well, I've got the beginnings of a wall. Now it's time to make sure my handiwork can resist Mother Nature's attempts to shorten its useful life.

Now this is a water and air barrier. Why am I putting it up? Well, I want to keep water, rain and air, cold winds, from penetrating to the inside of the house while at the same time, I want to allow water vapor to pass through the walls to the outside and not get trapped inside the wall where it could do some damage. Now I've already applied it over here, I've just got one section left right here.

This material can be attached either with a conventional staple gun or a hammer tacker. The hammer tacker though is a good bit faster and less tiring on the grip. Upper pieces are lapped over lower ones so that flowing water will always be diverted to the front of the strip below and never directed behind the wrap where it could be trapped and cause rotting.

Finally, I tape all the seams with a material designed just for that purpose. Well, I guess this is why they call it home wrap. Well, the walls are in good shape. Now I'm going to do the same for the window and door openings. This aluminum tape will create a water tight and weather tight seal.

I apply it to the sills and run it up the sides about eight inches. I cut it so that it can be wrapped around the corners and finally fold it over the edges. I apply a second strip of tape to the rear of the sill in the same way.

My new windows come with a metal flange that must be bent outward so it's perpendicular to the window frame. The weather tight seal comes from a bead of caulk that's applied to the inside of the flange. Now installing these windows, at least the larger ones is definitely a two person job.

So I recruit my neighbor Peter to come over and lend me a hand. After setting the bottom of the window on the finished opening, we just tilt it up into position.

Wow, like a glove huh?
PETER:
Hey, it looks great.
RON HAZELTON:
[LAUGHS] You know, I'm very lucky to have a neighbor like you.
PETER:
Thanks. I've got work at my house next.
RON HAZELTON:
Yeah. Well, turnabout's fair play. I owe you one.
PETER:
Thanks, appreciate it.
RON HAZELTON:
-- at the top, I make sure the house wrap laps over the flange, then nail the window in place. Well, I can't let Peter go yet. The sliding glass door is even larger than the window. But the installation is pretty much the same drill.

With the windows and doors in, it's time to begin adding some exterior trim, starting with the sills. Notice the drip groove in the bottom? It will prevent water from clinging to the underside and running down behind the shingles. I first clamp the wood in place, then secure it with screws. Adjoining sections are overlapped using a mitered scarf joint. Screw holes are countersunk so the screw heads can later be concealed with exterior spackle.

Above the windows, I'm installing some flat trim. The galvanized finish nails I'm using are being driven just below the surface, so they too can be concealed with spackle before painting. A piece of cornice molding adds a nice bit of detail where the eaves meet the wall.

And finally, I set a piece of one by six in place to fill in the space between the windows. Now it's on to shingling. I tack a strip of one by two in place as a sort of ledge. Then simply set each shingle on the board and tack it temporarily in place.

This speeds things up and allows me to make sure the bottom edge of each course is perfectly straight. Once an entire row is set, I strike a chalk line as a nailing guide and permanently attach each shingle with two galvanized nails.

These windows are state of the art, as good as they get when it comes to sealing around the edges and insulation. Two pieces of glass with a space in between filled with argon gas, an inert gas. Now that helps keep warm heated air from passing through in the winter and keeps the hot air outside in the summer.

So I've done about as good as I can do in terms of insulation up here. Now it's time to take care of the wall down here. I'll use bags of insulation cut to fit each bay. After stapling these in place, all I need to do is to cut out the openings for the electrical receptacles.

The power of course is turned off. This paper on the back of the insulation is a vapor barrier. It's intended to prevent water vapor from passing into the wall cavity. And when you're putting insulation like this up, make sure the vapor barrier is facing the interior living space as it is here.

Next, it's time for the drywall. Now, when it comes to driving screws for wallboard, you'll never get faster than this. This driver holds a strip of 50 screws. It's a one-handed operation that goes about as fast as I can pull the trigger.

To finish the wallboard, I first cover the recessed screw heads with joint compound, then apply a coat of compound to the joints themselves. Now I like to wet my paper tape before applying it. For me, it sticks better and I seem to be able to avoid air bubbles.

I lay the tape along the joint, then press it into the compound, keeping the knife at a shallow angle. Taping usually requires two or three coats of compound, each one being applied with a wider knife. I tape the corners the same way, first applying a bedding coat of compound.

Here though, I fold the tape before dipping it in the water and lay the crease into the corner of the wall, then press each flap of the tape into the compound, using the putty knife.

The last step for me is to trim out the windows on the inside. The cordless nailer I'm using requires no compressor, no fuel cells and will drive up to 1000 nails on a single battery charge. Well, that finishes up this room.

When the weather's good, I can open all these windows, pull down the screens and still have the breezes and fresh air of the porch I started with. You know, I like this as a porch but it's 20 degrees out there today and it's warm and cozy in here. So I like it a whole lot more as a four seasons room.

Convert an Existing Porch into Space that can be Used Year Round

If you have an existng screened in porch or patio, you may be surprised by how simple it is to convert this space into a four season room that can be used all year round, no matter what the weather outside. The framework is already there, all you need are some walls and windows, and you've got a more livable square footage.

Step 1

Remove Old Screen Panels

Begin by pulling away the molding or stops that hold the old screen panels into place. Once these have been removed, the panels should be easily tapped out of the frame with a hammer. If there is any additional trim on the exterior of the posts that will serve as your framework, you should also use a pry bar and a hammer to remove it during this step.

Step 2

Install the Bottom Sill Plate

Before you build the walls, you will need to install a bottom plate. This plate consists of two boards, one on top of the other, that are bolted directly into the concrete pad below. This step ensures the stability of the walls as the room is finished. The bottom plate should be treated lumber, as it will be the most exposed piece to the elements. Install anchor bolts into the concrete so that the plate can be bolted tightly to the floor. You may also want to place a thin piece of foam insulation between the concrete pad and the bottom board, to make sure that it is weather tight.

Step 3

Frame the Walls

When framing the walls, you will need to make a plan according to the size of the windows that you've purchased. The walls should then be framed to the appropriate height for the windows to fit. Begin by nailing vertical 2 x 4's to the existng posts, and then nail a top plate across them. Once that plate is in place, then additional studs can be nailed into place, 16 inches apart. Nail through the plate into the top of the stud, and then toenail the bottom of the stud into the bottom plate.

Step 4

Install Exterior Sheeting

Once the walls are framed, you will need to apply the exterior sheeting. An exterior grade plywood is perfect for this application. Simply cut the sheets to the proper size and nail them into place. You may find it helpful to build a simple square and to make a pencil mark along the straight edge. This will help you ensure that all of your nails are going directly into the heart of the stud, and not shooting around the sides. Once the sheeting is installed, then you should notice that the walls have become much more rigid.

Step 5

Apply Tyvek Housewrap

Housewrap will help weather proof the new room that you are building. It will act as a barrier to both moisture and wind, and will keep the wood framing and sheeting from rotting. Tyvek is a popular product often used for this application. Always make sure that the top piece overlaps the bottom, so that water always flows away from inside of the wrap. This will keep moisture away from the wooden framing of your four season room.

Step 6

Seal the Window and Door Frames

Before you install the windows and doors to your new four season room, you will need to make sure that the bare and exposed wood around the frames and jambs is sealed. Use a foil backed tape to do this. Overlap the sills and corners about 8 inches up the vertical sides and fold down the flaps. Think of it as gift wrapping the 2 x 4's that make up the frame.

Step 7

Install Windows and Doors

Once the frames are sealed with foil tape, you are ready to install the doors and windows. Begin by unfolding the nailing flanges and applying a bead of silicone to the inside of the flange. As you set the window into place, put the bottom onto the sill first, and then tip the top of the unit into place. Have a friend help you hold it in while you install the nails through the flange and into the framework of the wall.

Step 8

Apply Exterior Trim

Now that your windows and doors are in place, you are ready to install the exterior trim. The trim design that you choose will be particular to your house, but for any project, you will need to install trim around the windows with a drip edge. This ensures that the water doesn't flow back under the sill and into your wall. 1 x 6 is also commonly used to fill the spaces between windows. It can easily be ripped on a table saw to fit whatever space you may need to fill. Cornice pieces can also be installed between the exterior wall and the eave to dress up the appearance of your new four season room.

Step 9

Install Exterior Siding

Whatever product you choose to utilize for your exterior walls, it is important that it is level. In this case, Ron is using a cedar shake shingles, and after using a thin strip of wood to ensure that they first row is lined up correctly, he snaps a chalk line after each successive course to ensure that the spacing is uniform all the way up.

Step 10

Insulate the New Walls

Use paper backed fiberglass insulation to insulate the walls. The bats of insulation can be cut to the proper length before you install them. Set the bats into place, unfold the paper tabs over the studs, and use a staple gun to fasten the tabs to the studs. The paper acts as a vapor barrier, so always make sure that it is installed facing the interior of the room that you are insulating. A utility knife can be used to cut around any electrical outlets or light switches that you may have chosen to install.

Step 11

Install Wallboard

Begin this step by cutting the wallboard to the proper size. Try to utilize as many factory cut edges as you can, as this will make the finishing process a little easier. Screw the pieces into place using a screw gun. Ron is using a drill designed just for this process and it allows him to install the screws very quickly.

Step 12

Finish Wallboard Screw Holes and Seams

Begin the finishing process by filling the screw holes with joint compound. This may take several coats, with a light sanding job in between. The seams will require drywall tape to finish correctly. Coat the seam with joint compound, and then press the tape into the seam with a putty knife, pressing out any excess compound. It usually takes 2 or 3 coats to completely finish the seam, using a wider knife for each coat.

Step 13

Apply Interior Trim

The final step is to apply the interior trim. This job is done quickly and easily with a cordless nailer that doesn't require a compressor. You can choose trim that matches the rest of the woodwork in your home, or give your new four season room a look and feel that is completely unique.

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39Project Comments

We welcome your ideas and suggestions. Read through comments from other readers or leave your own.

This has to be the best “how to” video I’ve seen for doing any construction work on your house. It was absolutely great. I feel confident I can tackle this project soon. I would like to know if you can add the estimated cost of the project somewhere on the website. Also would changing a carport to an enclosed garage be similar? Looking forward to seeing more great things from this site.

Clay

May 10, at 9:27am

I am thinking of inclosing my backyard porch…i have my main electrical panel and electrical meter on this wall, under the porch roof. In the old days meter readers had to get into the yard and up to the meter to read it, then it went to pulling up in the alley and using binoculars to read the meter from their vehicle, now they are using a “gun” that im sure is some sort of infra-red device that reads the meters….my question is can i inclose my porch with the meter winding up in the inclosed area? will putting a window in front of the meter so it can be read thru the glass be ok? or can i even do this? i hope you respond quickly as this is about to happen asap…

Randy

Apr 15, at 3:04pm

I’m very impressed with the simplicity of your step by step instructions on an all season room. I feel confident now that this is a project my husband and I can do ourselves. Thank you so much! Happy Building!
The Browns

Tracy Brown

Apr 14, at 2:37pm

Just wondering what the ballpark cost would be for this project. Thanks.

Bob

Mar 30, at 8:55am

just what an wonderful web page. The information helps myself with my preliminary research. I am attending school and I have a school assignment to create. I was intending to get custom research papers on the web, luckily your site has assisted me cope with authors hinder and i also feel like I am able to proceed on my own. Many thanks all for this great material.

Losse

Mar 8, at 4:32pm

the words used by “the Master” were uncalled for and offensive. I applaud the fact that you allowed the post which illustrates your honesty. keep up the good work i enjoy your site the most God bless you and to the “Master” get a life and go to church.

from chicago

wayne

Feb 24, at 8:36am

I enjoyed this. It showed me what I needed. Can you do a video for vinyl siding? I have a screen room that is wood and I want to cover it with vinyl siding. Thanks for the different suugestions. I wake up at 5:30 on Saturday just to see your show.

jackie

Feb 21, at 3:57pm

Maybe someone else asked this question, but I did not see it. How did you get heat into the new room? I assume the porch did not have heat ducts yet in order to make the room as cozy as you said, when the outside is 20 degrees, you need to have heat brought into the room.

Steve Ochs

Feb 16, at 2:08am

Great job, being a retired building inspector, but most codes require 6” walls, insulated all around,
foundation check, and permits. Things like this should be talked about.
I enjoy your site pike up many hints, I say Thanks

Nick Orgettas

Feb 13, at 10:26am

nice job, here in England we would have to have building reg’s very step of the way!!..then again.. must of our lower walls are made from brick.
love the video’s good health to ya.
regards
Rich.

Richard

Feb 13, at 1:15am

Our closed in sunroom is above grade, and is located on a lake, what method should be used to insulate the floor ? Right now there is onlly the floor joists exposed to the weather. I need to know what insulation to use in the joist areas and how to cover the joist area to keep it from being effected by the moisture at the lake.
Thank you in advance,
Jim Dawsomspecial9

Jim Dawson

Feb 12, at 8:10pm

Ron, I have worked in sunroom construction in communities where code enforcement has forced contractors to go back and establish full foundations becaue a slab will support screens, but when you add the weight of framing and glass the rooms start sinking into the ground. Just a word of caution, not all porches are easily convertied to full time living space.

Gary Lane

Feb 12, at 7:51pm

Ron instead of sanding the compound I found a damp sponge wiped over it before it completly dries is better than sanding and the dust.

Raymond Hamerly

Feb 12, at 7:01pm

Hi Ron,
Great job on your porch. You went into great detail about all the basics of the project. I wish we had more shows on TV and articals on the web about home projects. I have seen this project on your TV show and I have also seen how you did your heating for this project.
I also have sent you some project tips and have had your staff reply to my comments, So my thoughts are please keep up the great job you are doing, We need more people like you. Please over look the people with the bad thoughts about you and your shows. I thank you and your show are just what people need to see. I watch your show every saterday at 5:30am on TV.
Take care.
Ronnie Hogan

Ronnie Lee Hogan

Feb 12, at 4:11pm

Nice finished room. The only comment I would add to your article/video is a note about permits. Where I live inspections are required for the framing, housewrap, wiring, insulation, and sheetrock of this project. Also would require 2 permits, one building permit for the entire project and one electrical permit to change/add a circuit.

Lauren

Feb 12, at 2:21pm

As always, you explain everything in an easy to understand manner. I have always wanted to enclose my balcony/porch off of my bedroom without loosing the great summer time breezes. I have really enjoyed your videos, I just wish I didn’t have so many health problems, so I could do more of the DIY projects you always seem to make look easy. The best part is when I get someone to help me with the projects, I seem to know more than they do about the A-Z solutions and quick steps. Thanks for all you do, I love your TV show and I love this site even more.

Diana

Feb 12, at 2:19pm

Ron WTF !??! I, been sending in comments and none are being posted !! So now that your web site has totally pissed me off WTF ?
I have also written several times to you on your contact page over the last 18 months, and nobody has had the decency to reply !!
Again WTF ??? Please get your head out of your A___

THE MASTER

Feb 12, at 1:50pm

Thank you Ron ! I’m awaiting heating and cooling suggestions.
Your videos are indeed informative…

Richard Brooks

Feb 12, at 1:25pm

your sun room is absolutely beautiful!!i love to watch your videos,you are so talented.what a great job,and you made it look so easy too.

debbie

Feb 12, at 12:58pm

Hermoso proyecto Ron. Se ve tan fácil cuando lo haces. Me gusta mucho ver la variedad de herramientas que usas, como te simplifican el trabajo.
¡Gracias!

Juan Contreras Carvajal

Feb 12, at 12:13pm

Thanks, this is Going to be My spring project. The finishing on outsie was what I was wodering about.

Jon Schmidt

Feb 12, at 12:02pm

good video as a construction guide! thanks….being a carpenter i want to know where you get the clothes that repel all forms of dirt!!

john

Feb 12, at 10:39am

Ron

II noticed in this project you used a battery operated nail gun I have never
seen one please tell me how many volts and where can it be bought

Robert Peterson

Feb 12, at 9:24am

What did you do about heating & air conditioning ?

John Hanecker II

Feb 12, at 6:43am

How can it be cozy? Isn’t the floor really cold and what about ceiling insulation.
Otherwise I love your articles and they are easy to follow.

arnie akertyne

Feb 12, at 5:24am

You should not squeeze the insulation over the wiring. It should be slit so all the cavity will be filled around the wire.

Dirk

Feb 12, at 4:09am

I was curious about what you did with the interior ceiling.

Michael O'Doherty

Feb 12, at 2:47am

That was a good one & you made it look so easy. I know for a fact that it was not as easy as you made it out to be.
Love your tips

Ernie

Feb 12, at 1:56am

I understand all you did in the video. However I have a 1200 ft deck that has no exterior walls. I would like to close a nice size room on a portion of the west facing deck for a four seasons room. The deck has 2x12s has floor supports with 4X4 posts supporting the floor joists. Should I tale the 5/4 decking to start the framing or just use all the decking as support with marine plywood as a new base. The 5/4 decking was installed with the crown down and it catches water and snow and is starting to warp up on the sides of the boards. Thats why I’m rather reluctant to cover the decking with the plywood. Our Farm house was built in the early 1900’s and we remodeled thru the years with new interiors, plumbing, wiring, steel roofing and lots more. I want to be sure we do this project right to last for years to come. Thank yhou for any advice you have time to offer.

Jon & Joan Fricker

Jon Fricker

Dec 31, at 8:40am

Ron, this was just beautiful, it shows me what is needed when I hire someone to do this job or me. Let me ask, what do I do now for the ceiling, it is aluminium, without insulation? Also, i wish to put “warmboard in the cement floor as my source of heat. I face North, and it is cold. My porch does have a cantina beneath it, it is unheated, but it is 7 or 8 feet high. Does this affect what kind of heating I should place in this new beautiful space? Also, I have seen these windows that are bifolding so that this room can still be open in the summer if required, is this unwise? I live in zone 6. I would love to get your insights on this, my sweet husband now plays guitar and his music carries from the basement, if this room becomes his music room it will be better for all.

Also, John Hammel’s comment “How did you insulate the ceiling? I’m doing the same thing with my screened porch and have it complete except for the insulation. I now have a nice vinyl ceiling with about 7” above it which is vented under the soffit and has a roof vent. I’d like to use syrofoam but fear cutting it and wonder what my options may be. HELP?”, is pertinent to my porch ceiling, what do i do re this?

Thank you kind sir, all the videos were fantastic!
Tracy

Tracy D'Souza

Nov 25, at 5:16am

i have a deck with regular deck boards in good shape..it has a regular asphalt roof over it with a cathedral ceiling. before i put in the sill plates should i remove all the railing? also what type of flooring should i install, i will be carpeting. the deck is 3 ft off the ground with lattice, should i wait to install good osb to enclose it and insulate under the floor first? and what type of insulation under the floor should i use?

vickie

Nov 22, at 3:12pm

you are the first sensible person out there. i am lucky to have a deck 3 ft of the ground with regular deck boards. there is also a full cathedral ceiling and an asphalt roof over it. the whole house had new shingles last year. 3 questions. there are posts and railings around the deck. do i remove all the railing and then put down outdoor base flooring. (i plan on carpeting.) before i put down the sill plate? also there is only lattice at the bottom which goes into dirt. so should i use good treated osb to enclose that area? at what point and how should i insulate under the floor? and what should be used? i am planning on heating the room so i already have very good windows/door and know to insulate the walls. all of what i know i have learned from your show. i have watched it for years. thank you

vickie farrell

Nov 22, at 2:55pm

I would love to get your insights on this, my sweet husband now plays guitar and his music carries from the basement, if this room becomes his music room it will be better for all.

Thank you, Tracy.

Tracy D'Souza

Nov 19, at 6:04am

Well Ron I guess you have this section of your website for show because you obviously don’t take the time to read these comments. Maybe your just too busy now to deal with genuine queries for free!

Susan A. Housley

Oct 30, at 10:55am

Wow, this is in every respect what I neeedd to know.

Jeana

Oct 22, at 5:55am

We have had a 4 season room (we call it a breezeway) installed for several years, but our problem exists that we still have an exterior door and jamb installed between the house and breezeway and we would like to convert that exterior door and jamb to an interior door with no threshhold to step or trip over. The wall, what used to be an exterior wall, dividing the house and breezeway, is 6 inches thick. From what I have been able to find, most interior door jambs only span 4 inches. I could really use some input if possible. Thanks, Karen

Karen H.

Oct 20, at 8:35pm

Hi Ron I live in an older home, about 80 years old, and the front and rear porches are part of the house. I would like to do something similar to what you have done here to block the traffic noise from the road out front and to have a four seasons room off the kitchen in the rear. Do you have a process or instructions you could share with me? I can send photos if that would help!

Thank you in advance

Sue

Susan

Oct 8, at 9:27am

How did you insulate the ceiling? I’m doing the same thing with my screened porch and have it complete except for the insulation. I now have a nice vinyl ceiling with about 7” above it which is vented under the soffit and has a roof vent. I’d like to use syrofoam but fear cutting it and wonder what my options may be. HELP?

Thanks much!

John R. Hamel

Jul 31, at 1:30pm

Wouldn’t you need to add heat? It gets cold in New England in winter.

Rich

Jul 18, at 10:27am

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