Update your kitchen by building a new particle board base covered with attractive laminate with matching bullnose edging. Removal of the entire countertop and sink is required. Replacing the sink with a new stainless steel or porcelain model is no extra work, but it will provide extra value in enhancing your kitchen and bringing it into the current decade.
Remove existing countertops, backsplashes, the sink and its plumbing, and below-counter appliances. Use a putty knife, pry bar, utility knife, hammer, and cordless driver, but be careful not to mark the existing walls or tile.
Using the original countertop sections as templates, trace their exact size and shape onto 3/4-inch thick medium density fiberboard (MDF). Once the old pieces are traced for the new MDF blanks, they may be discarded.
Place two-by-fours underneath the MDF sheet to support it while you use a metal straight-edge as a guide to cut the blanks out with a circular saw. Insets and other shape details should be cut with a jigsaw.
Glue the blanks' edges together, clamping them until the glue dries. Working from the bottom, use glue and countersunk screws to secure MDF cleats across joints as reinforcement and along the forward edges to make a double-thickness lip.
Transfer the blanks' dimensions to the laminate with a 1-inch allowance to overhang on all sides. Cut laminate panels for tops and thin strips for hidden edges, scoring the laminate with a carbide-tipped tool and breaking it along the score-line.
Apply two coats of contact adhesive to the blank surfaces and one coat to the laminate, beginning with the hidden edges. Let the adhesive dry. Position the laminate, pressing each piece firmly in contact with the blank with a J-roller.
Trim the allowance from the edges with a laminate trimmer/router. Hold the trimmer perfectly flat against the laminate, moving from left to right. Repeat this process for all the top panels.
Route a dado into the exposed countertop edges to fit the wooden tongue on the back of the decorative laminate strips and miter the ends for corners. Brush the dado, tongue and adjoining surfaces with glue and press place.
Screw countertops to support brackets. Apply construction adhesive to the backsplashes, pressing them into place. Squeeze a bead of white silicon caulking along the backsplash-tile joint, but use clear caulking at the countertop-backsplash joint. Smooth the caulking. Replace the appliances.
Tracing the sink upside down along the countertop. Draw a second line 1/4 inch inside the original outline as the cutting line. Drill starter holes at each corner and cut the opening out with a jigsaw. Reattach the plumbing.