Construct a one-by-two poplar framework for each shelf to cover with plywood. Cut and miter strips of poplar to face the exposed plywood edges on the front and sides. Secure each component with glue and nails. Spackle the nail holes and then sand and paint each shelf. Wall-mount poplar cleats to studs and seat the hollow shelving on top.
Set up a table saw and fence to cut 1/2-inch plywood skins to measure. Cut an identical pair of panels to cover the top and bottom framework of each individual shelving unit. Units may be of different lengths, if desired.
Cut poplar into one-by two inch strips for the frameworks of all the floating wooden shelves. Rip the strips to identical width so that all the finished shelves will be of uniform thickness when the strips are assembled on edge.
Cut one-by-two poplar for each floating wall shelf's framework. Make a pair of long sides, a pair of short sides, and a pair of cross braces for each, cut to measure so they will fit the plywood skins made earlier.
Apply glue and position a pair of long sides and short sides in a long rectangle of correct dimensions. Secure them with a nail gun, and then glue and nail the cross braces.
Apply carpenter's glue to the edges of the framework. Position the plywood skin and staple through the skin into the framework along its perimeter and the cross braces. Repeat for the other side.
Cut one-by-two facing strips to cover the three exposed edges of each shelf unit. Miter the ends so they meet to form neat corners. Glue and nail the front piece, followed by the end pieces.
Use a putty knife to fill all the nail holes, and then use a small sander to smooth everything to the touch. All surfaces should be ready for finishing.
Finish all exterior surfaces of the shelving units before they are mounted. Work outside in a well ventilated area to minimize fumes from the paint. Apply two coats per manufacturer's directions and allow each coat to dry.
Use painter's tape to visualize the best position for each shelf. Mark stud and cleat positions and ensure they are level before screwing them into the studs.
Pre-drill counter-sunk screw holes in the back top edge of the shelf. Clip the open back over its cleat and tap it in place. Drive screws through the holes into the cleats to secure.
We welcome your ideas and suggestions. Read through comments from other readers or leave your own.
what a great video, just starting a project on my bedroom and now after watching your video im gonna attempt to make my own, many thanks
The episode where the parents needed floating shelves for their son; well, you must see the father of this kid. the host and this kids father look like brothers-or should i say ‘brothers from a different mother.’
I would like to know if it’s advisable to construct a solid L-shape unit that will extend roughly 30” each direction, or if I should build two separate shelves that will meet at 90 degrees. Could you advise on the frame construction and cleat placement?
Could you let me know what the dimensions are for the framing pieces that are sandwiched between the plywood skins as well as for the outside face pieces that cover the 3 exposed edges? Also the dimensions of the cleats you used. Thank you very much.
Careful with the weight limit here! I wouldn’t trust even Harper sitting on one of those shelves once they’re installed. The limiting factor on these shelves is the force needed to rip the 1/4” plywood top surface through the screws that attach the shelves to the wall struts (and to top it off, they’ve been countersunk—- so there’s very little wood left to hold onto)—- I’d guess the one shelf with the 18” length of books is about the limit of that shelf’s capacity.
I’m about to make this project, wish I had a list of materials needed; guess i’ll have to watch it again, I know you said 2” strips but is there also 1” on the outer sides? Thanks sewwww much. Ruthie
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I would like to build some of these to give my cats a “habitat” looking out a half-moon window, with a few shorter ones to give them some lead up to the higher shelf…as several others asked, what is the weight load when using 2” x 2” pine cleats with the shelf 12” wide? I’d hate for the cats to come a’tumbling down on top of my plasma television, lol. I’m sure they probably wouldn’t like it to much either. ![]()
The first project I viewed was the floating shelves. I was very board with all the waiting for the reloading of each section.
When that young boy puts his weight on the lower shelves trying to reach the upper shelves I’m afraid there will be damage to the wall or shelf and the youngster will be injured. No mention was made of the load limits of these shelves.
It was attractive, BUT!!!
it can handle heavy things didn’t you see those 2 big guys sitting on it drinking coffee?
I like to get the dimensions of all them cuts.
Great video, easy to follow and a terrific finished look! I want to build these for a friend’s daughter’s bedroom.
What kind of wood did you cut the 2” x 2” cleats from, does it have to be poplar since the rest of your poplar stock was 1” thick?
Weren’t the facing pieces taller than 2” since you were covering the 2” frame plus the thickness of a top and bottom piece of 1/2” plywood?
Great Video! I’m also curious as to how much weight these shelves can hold? I have a lot of books and love the floating shelves look.
thanks!
how much weight can you put on a floating shelf, max?
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Thanks Ron, I used your design and the shelf worked very well. ahead16