How to Accurately Cut Wood Pieces to the Same Length
Any time you have to cut two or more pieces of wood to exactly the same length, the one thing you don't want to do is measure and mark each piece individually with a tape measure, and cut them one at a time. Every time you measure the wood, and every time you cut it, you can introduce a small error. In some projects, even those small errors can add up to one big one.
To prevent that kind of problem, here are four different, but equally effective and accurate, ways to cut multiple boards to precisely the same length.
The first method is to measure and mark one board with a tape measure, then cut it to length. Write "Pattern" or "Sample" on the cut piece. Now, instead of measuring and marking additional pieces with the tape measure, use the pattern. Make sure the ends are flush . . . . . and use a sharp pencil for the marking. It's important to use the same pattern every time. If you start changing patterns, you can start changing the length of the wood you're cutting.
The second way to cut multiple pieces to exactly the same length is to lay them down on a bench top, square up the ends, and clamp them together. Measure and mark all four together, then cut all four pieces at once.
If you have many pieces to cut, or if clamping them together is impractical, a third technique is to use a power miter saw. Clamp a strip of wood (also known as an "auxiliary fence") to the miter saw fence. A one-by-four or a one-by-three is a good size for this auxiliary fence. With the board clamped, cut off the end. Then put the measuring tape on the cut end and measure and mark the length of the boards you want to cut. Place a scrap piece of wood on the mark and clamp it in position. We'll call this a "stop block."
The final step of this method is to place your oversized piece of stock on the saw table and slide it until the end contacts the stop block.Hold the stock piece firmly and make the cut. Any number of pieces can be cut this way with identical results.
The fourth method is similar to the third, but it uses the stop block technique on a table saw instead of a miter saw. In this case, screw the auxiliary fence to the table saw miter gauge. Once it's attached, cut partially through the auxiliary fence. Drop the end of the tape into the saw curve, measure down the fence, and mark the desired finished length of the boards you'll be cutting. Now cut and clamp on the stop block, just as you did with the miter saw. Then you can place and cut wood by using the stop block in the same way.
There you have it! Four ways to make repetitive cuts that are virtually identical. Next time you work on a project involving several boards of the same length, use one of thse methods, and you can be sure that your work will come out true.
18Comments
Dennis P
Jan 31, at 8:54pm
Ron,
All great tips, though some might be confused by the reference to “the saw curve” instead of instead of the “kerf”, if they don’t take time to watch your
excellent video.
Thanks, and keep ‘em comming!
Chris
Jan 30, at 6:28pm
Hi Ron,
Enjoy the tips you give from your web site. The four ways to cut stock at the precise length was very smart.
Eugene
Jan 29, at 7:36pm
Every time I watch you…I never fail to learn something useful. Keep up the the great work…
Aubrey Schmit
Jan 29, at 6:52pm
Loved the tune that played during the final hint. Who did it?
Paul
Jan 29, at 4:40pm
Thanks Ron. You’re the best!
Tom B
Jan 29, at 3:49pm
Great Ideas,very helpfull. Thank You; Jan29,1:35pm
Alfred
Jan 29, at 3:35pm
One mistake. In all instances you are assuming that the end is perfectly square. Rarely the case. The end has to be squared first.
steve
Jan 29, at 2:45pm
Ron, you are Da Man!!
Thomas Ianello
Jan 29, at 1:03pm
I have been wanting to use some “soss” barrel hinges to put two pieces of wood together, they can fold flat for carrying or storing and open to about 45 degrees for my Bible to rest on when I read it in the mornings)(upside down v)...trouble is..I used to be able to figure this stuff at a glance, but the older I get, the more difficult….I can’t seem to figure out how to center the barrel hinges so the boards are flush when opened flat, or equal when opened to 45 degrees….it looks like a mickey mouse wood butchering job lol….....help!
Dave
Jan 29, at 12:09pm
Great advise Ron. I have used the multiple pieces clamped together method, however I use my square to bring the ends together evenly. Sometimes a block of wood can be slightly angled making uneven pieces.
Al Fredrickson
Jan 29, at 9:27am
wow, love your tips, I am 73 and a woman, love your tips, especially the ones using the stop blocks, they are great, thanks for all your help
Dorothy Staley
Jan 29, at 9:10am
Great ideas. Every time I watch a video like this, it inspires me to build. Thank you Ron - I wish you were my next door neighbor.
Lori
Jan 29, at 8:58am
Good stuff. Just a warning that if you are using one of the stop block techniques and the stop block is on the saw’s table, shim it up 1/16” of an inch or so to keep sawdust from accumulating there and throwing off your measure. When your block is off the table like in your demos, it doesn’t matter.
Keith
Jan 29, at 8:32am
Thanks, Ron! I know that one will come in handy!
Jerry
Jan 29, at 7:26am
Great idea for a table saw. Use similar for cutting box joints. Thanks,
Chris
Jan 29, at 7:19am
very helpful, esp. the table saw one.
woodmom
Jan 29, at 2:13am
Nice!
Do it Yourselfer
Nov 4, at 12:25am
A couple of things to be aware of when using stop blocks are trapped sawdust and clamp slippage.
If you’re cutting shorter pieces than Ron’s example and the stop block is set so it rests on the miter or table saw’s table, then it can trap sawdust at the bottom and you’ll cut the pieces too short. To prevent this lay a pencil down first, set the block on it, clamp it and remove the pencil. Now the sawdust has an escape route when you push the next piece against the block.
Use a screw or pump-type clamp to hold the stop block as spring clamps will move after repeated bumping.