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by Ron Hazelton on January 11, 2017 in News
by Ron Hazelton on December 18, 2016 in News
by Ron Hazelton on November 12, 2016 in News
Viewing Project in Walls > Hanging & Mounting
I used Ron's tips to make a number of frames to display my numerous academic degrees in our library. We get many compliments on them.
Hi everybody, it seems easy to make your frame when you have all these tools (what is the cost of all these ?) I only have my saw , so I prefer to go to my favorite shop , where I have a big choice of frames, colours and atrials ! For 120 euros, I had a wonderful frame for a large picture of Klee, with wooden frame,Marie Louise, glass ,etc ! And of course, the absolute absence of worrying !
Interesting. But, I don't think I'd call that "the easy way" to make a picture frame. It requires a table saw, a router and a router table. Not easy for most folks.
My wife saw this article and video and I got framed into making one!
If you want to it yourself just look for http://woodprix.com website. There is all you need to make it :)
if you don't know how to make it yourself , just go to http://woodprix.com website. There you will find your answers.
I'm sure you have come a long way in the last 4 years, but one of the best and most useful tools (power tool wise) is a router and router table, depending on what you are planning on doing that is...
Just remember to use the outside edge of the rabbit joint to make your measurements from... not the inside edges of the frame itself, or your frame members will be too short.
Common lumber has a call size of 1", but it actually measures 3/4" thick. You can make your frame out of what ever size lumber you want or feel would look right for your particular project.
The size of the photo is your base, then what ever scale up to make the mat.. The glass is the same size as the mat (or maybe 1/16" larger) and the corners of the glass determine the size of the frame cuts. You measure the frame cuts from the outside edges of the rabbit cut (plus 1/8" to allow for wood shrinkage as the glass won't shrink but the wood most likely will). The size of the mat and the size of your frame determine the overall size of the picture frame.. You just want to make sure you keep things to scale-proportion.. Most likely you do not want an 6" wide frame on a 5" x 7" photo... totally out of scale.
Depending on the project and the wood, I usually use warm tap water and a common kitchen sponge that is slightly more than damp, but not dripping wet. Wipe major excess with a rag, then go over the joint with the sponge, rinsing in between. Yes, it will raise the grain of most woods, but your going to be sanding as a later step anyway. I have also picked up a mini black light ($12) and check the glue joints before applying any finish, to insure there isn't a left over glue issue...
Another process is to wait until the glue is more of a rubber consistency as it's drying and to scrape the excess off with a thin blade putty knife or a chisel or an old sharpened credit card type of plastic.
We are all still anxiously awaiting your list Bro. Thanx
Great video Ron! Can you send me the cut list please?
what are the dimensions
Ok watched the pro make the picture frame--wish it was so easy as Ron makes it look --interested in measurements and rotter bits used. Also my air compressor took a dive and I was wondering about getting an electric brad nailer--any suggestions on this. I understand that a small air compressor is a waste of money--any comments
If you glue brown paper to the back of the frame and spry it with a little water while the glue is still wet the paper will tighten up nicely like and look more professional.
Great video. I would like to try making a frame like this but my local hardware store doesn't seem to carry 3/4" poplar, just 1/4", 1/2", and 1". Do you think I could glue a piece of 1/4" and 1/2" together to make 3/4"? Or could I just use the 1" in place of the 3/4"? Also, it would be awesome if I could get the details on the widths that each piece was ripped to. If there are plans can you send them to [email protected]Thanks!
Did he ever sent u the list??
Please send me the list thank u [email protected]
Thanks for all the work, but the ads were many, and longer than your stuff.
I enjoyed watching this, but as a beginner it would be nice to get the measurements that you ripped the pieces down to, not just the thickness.
I'd like to see your list. I've done several hundred frames from 3" x 3" to 5' x 7', but can always learn
You should try Titebond Molding and Trim AKA No-Run No-Drip glue on the miters. It's highly viscous and does a great job on end-grain or short-grain joints.
It's really important that you get the corners glued up in the right position. I glue up the two opposite corners and always recite "Long on left" to get the long side on my left. That way you won't get two long or two short pieces next to each other.
You could use biscuits, they are very strong, another choice might be half laps on your corners, lots of flat grain gluing surfaces then.
There is a better way to put the backing paper on the work. Wet a piece of craft paper, bigger than the frame, back and front by spraying with water. Wipe off and excess water and wait a couple of minutes for the water to soak in. Glue the paper to the frame and weight it down with a few books or a weighted board. Let it dry overnight. The paper will shrink tight. Now take a file and file off the excess paper. You get a nice crisp professional edge without worrying about tape.
***1/8" allowance*** For instance, if the glass/picture measures 8"x10", the *interior* dimensions of the frame should be 8 1/8" x 10 1/8". This 1/8" allowance lets you install the glass and artwork easily.
That's what the mat does (single mat provides 1/16" space, double mat about 1/8" space). I think Ron did include a mat in this project.
I have made a few picture frames. They were not this fancy & I used all hand tools
Ike, are you from Minnesota? What year did you graduate?
Well it depends on the size of your picture. Any size can be used.
A well stocked workshop contains all of those items Bro.
I have had that same prob Bro!
Did you get it yet? How did yours turn out?
Thanks for sharing that Bro!
Right on Info!
How did it turn out? Maybe you could post a picture of it?
Did you put it to use yet? Let us know.
Thanks for sharing that CAM!
The one thing they never show you is how to get the correct measuerments on height and length. Outside or inside measurement?
I'm a professional furniture maker, and I just picked up a few things. Very nice video sir.
Something to consider is that a photo should never come in direct contact with the glass. Moisture from the air will cause a mold/foxing issue on your photo. A thin spacer between the photo and glass separating the two is absolutely necessary here.
Good luck buying a custom mold and stain job for only $59 at a frame shop w/glass and matte Its not the shop he is showing you, its the methods which can be applied. For only a few hundred (Miter saw and a router) I make large frames that would cost hundreds at professional frame shops. Technic surpasses equipment every time and that's where the skill comes into play not the equipment. (Although awesome equipment brings big smiles)
I have spent HOURS trying to get mitred frame corners to match up. INSIDE corner jig - why didn't I think of that???
Great video. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise in such a clear, straightforward manner. Framing shops charge an arm and a leg! So I'm keen to try out making my own. Thanks again :)
I love the video. Can't wait to put it to good use.